Pattern Hack - Maya Cami / Dress With Added Bust Frill →

Pattern Hack - Maya cami/ dress

Frill Addition

Pattern Adjustments

Follow these following steps to create your frill pattern piece. The rest of the pattern pieces do not need to be altered.

Step 1

On your front pattern piece, measure the length of the bust cup seam, from side seam to centre front.

Step 2

Double the bust cup length measurement taken in step one. This will be the length of your frill piece. Draw a rectangle 15cm wide, and by the length or your frill piece as described. (15cm will give your frill a width of 6.5cm once made, feel free to adjust the width as you desire!)

Cut out your new pattern piece. Draw in a straight grainline parallel to the short end. Label your piece ‘Maya Frill’ and cutting instructions ‘Cut 1 Pair’.

Step 3

Fold frill pattern in half lengthwise.

Place the frill piece under your front dress pattern, line the frill grainline up with the centre front of dress, and place the folded corner edge of frill to side seam, as seen in picture 2. Draw the shape of the front side seam along the frill pattern piece edge.

Cut this section off your frill pattern piece as shown above in picture 3, and unfold your frill piece.

This will ensure the frill will sit nicely into the side seam once gathered and attached.

Sewing adjustments;

Follow the fusing step, and steps 1 to 6 as per your Maya instruction booklet. Then follow the following steps for the frill addition.

Step 1

Press frill piece in half lengthwise.

Step 2

Stitch a row of gathering stitches (the longest stitch length on your machine) along the top edge of both frill pieces, keeping it sitting within the 1cm / 0.39” seam allowance.

Step 3

With right facing, pin your frill piece along one bust cup edge of the dress front panel.

Pull the gathering threads and evenly distribute gathers until it fits. Pin securely in place then stitch together. Neaten seam.

Step 4

Repeat with second frill piece on other front bust cup seam.

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin the two gathering notches on the bust cup to the two notches on the top edge of front panel. Pin, matching the bust cup side seam with the front panel side seam, then pin out so that the centre front edge of bust cup intersects with your centre front marking. Pull gathering stitch on bust panel taut so that it forms a nice even gather between the two gathering notches. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Repeat on other side.

Step 6

Continue to follow the instructions 9 to 17 to complete the construction of your new frilly Maya!

You did it!

Solar Tee - Pattern Hack - T-shirt dress →

Pattern adjustments:

Use the Solar sleeve pattern piece as it is, then apply the following instructions to your front and back pieces, and to create your tie piece.

Step 1

Lengthen hemline to new desired length on front and back pattern pieces. We added 60cm for this green sample pictured.

Step 2

Mark in a notch on the side seams for the split. We chose to go up 33cm from hem for our split height, and 2.5cm for our hem depth.

Step 3

- Draw a rectangle 60cm x 9cm.

- Curve one end of the rectangle to make a point.

- Add a 1 cm seam allowance around the new pointed shape.

- Cut out your new tie piece and write the cutting instructions; Cut 2 pairs.

Sewing instructions

Follow steps 1-8 as per Solar tee instruction booklet, then follow these remaining steps.

Step 1

Neaten dress front side edges, from sleeve edge down to dress hem.

Repeat for back side seam edges.

Step 2

Place 2 tie pieces together with right sides facing and pin together all the way around, leaving the short straight edge open. Stitch around tie edge leaving the short end open. Trim seam allowance in half and clip at point. Turn through to the right side and press well. Repeat steps for the other tie.

Step 3

Pin your ties to front side seams, at waist. Stitch in place with a 5mm seam allowance.

Step 4

With right sides together, place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up. Pin down to split notch and out to sleeve hem.
Stitch together. Repeat for opposite side.

Step 5

Press side seams open. Also press the split seam allowance back 1cm.

Step 6

Fold the hems up at the hem notch toward the right side (wrong sides out) and stitch along the edge, clip the corners and turn through to the right side. Press. This bags out the split hem.

Step 7

From inside the garment, pin hem edges up 3cm. Stitch front and back hems.

Step 8

Topstitch around opening of split.

You did it!

Solar Tee - Pattern Hack - Elastic Hems →

Pattern Adjustments-

Step 1

Working on your front pattern piece, shorten the length of the top by 8cm. (this amount can be adjusted depending on personal fit and length preference.)

Step 2

Mark a hem notch on the side seam at 5cm from the bottom of pattern piece. (again, this figure can be adjusted depending on width of chosen elastic. Notch placement = elastic width + 1cm for sleev)

Step 3

Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the back pattern piece.

Step 4

Add 2.5cm to the sleeve length. Keep the notch in the same position to create a 5cm sleeve hem allowance.

Sewing instructions

Step 1

Follow steps 1-9 in your Solar tee instruction booklet for the shoulder seam, neckline, sleeve and side seam construction.

Step 2

Neaten hem edge.

Step 3

Press hem edge up 5cm, toward inside of top and pin. Stitch, leaving a 5cm opening for the elastic to be able to thread through.

Step 4

Cut a length of 5cm elastic. Attach a small safety pin to one edge of your elastic and pin the other end to the seam allowance, right next to the hem opening. Thread safety pinned edge through the gap, threading through until it returns out the same hole.

Remove pinned edge of elastic from seam allowance and remove safety pin from the other end. Overlap the two open ends of elastic and safety pin them together. Try the top on to check the fit of elastic. Adjust accordingly then stitch elastic together securely. Stretch out hem casings until the stitched part of elastic is sitting within the casing, then stitch closed.

Step 5

Repeat hem and elastic steps 3 & 4 on sleeves.

You did it!

Solar Tee - Pattern Hack- Exaggerated Frill →

Step 1

Using the sleeve frill pattern piece. Attach a blank piece of paper to the hem.

Step 2

Extend the frill side seam length 12cm (or chosen desired length!). Square across to other side seam to create new hemline.

Step 3

Write across the new hemline ‘cut on fold’.

Cutting incrstructions for your new sleeve frill are ‘cut 2 on fold’.

Sewing Instruction Adjustments

Follow the original Solar sewing instructions for the shoulder seams, side seams, neckline and hem. Then follow the following steps to attach you exaggerated frill piece.

Step 1

With right sides together, fold sleeve frill in half and pin. Stitch together and press seam allowance open.

Step 2

With right sides out, fold your frill piece in half so that the raw edges meet.

Stitch a long gather stitch through both layers of open edge.

Repeat for other side.

Step 3

Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing, lining up underarm side seams. Stitch around armhole. Pull through to right side. Repeat for other side.

You did it. Enjoy your new statement sleeves!

Long Array Dress Pattern Adjustment

Pattern adjustments

Step 1 -

Starting with your front pattern piece, add the desired length to the hemline.

• Attach a length of paper under the bottom of your pattern piece.

• Draw a straight line down from current hemline to continue the centre front line.

• Measuring down from current hemline, mark in the desired extra length along this line.

• Square across from this point to create your new hemline.

• Now draw a straight line, continuing the side seam down to the new hemline.

• Cut out new front pattern piece with the extra length added!

• Repeat steps for back pattern piece.

Step 2

Mark a notch at your desired split length. Mark another notch for the new hem allowance (we usually do a 3cm hem allowance).

Sewing Steps

Most of the construction steps will be the same for the dress version, except..

Step 1

You need to neaten the side seams of the front and back body pieces first before sewing side seams. 

Step 2

Stitch the side seams together from under arm to split notch, and press open.

Step 3

When stitching the split, fold the hems up at the hem notch toward the right side (wrong sides out) and stitch along the edge, clip the corners and turn through to the right side. Press. This bags out the split hem.

From inside the garment, pin hem edges up 3cm. Stitch front and back hems.

Step 4

Press the remainder of the side seam open and topstitch around the opening.

You did it! Enjoy wearing your beautifully long array!

Hat Pack - Beanie

Step 1

Start by marking in your dart points from your pattern piece on the wrong side of fabric.

Step 2

With the right side of fabric up, fold in half as illustrated, lining up the two open edges. Stitch together. Press seam allowance open.

Step 3

On the opposite side, stitch together darts, taking your stitchline down to the marked point. Clip down dart opening as far as possible, being careful not to clip main fabric or any stitches. Press open.

Step 4

Fold the bottom edges up to meet the top edges folding it over itself to form a tube with all the seams on the inside.

Step 5

Making sure all the seams and darts are lined up through all layers, Stitch the last seam, through all layers, ending your stitch line at the dart points. Neaten seam.

Step 6

Turn through to the right side and give your beanie a good press. Voila!

You can wear it long or roll it up for a cuffed look!

Hat Pack - Beret

Step 1

Start by finding and marking the centre point of your top circle piece on the right side of fabric. You can do this by folding it in half one way, then folding it in half the other way.

Step 2

Take your beret stalk and with right side out, loop it into a circle, overlapping the open edges by about 5mm/0.19”.

Step 3

Place your looped stalk onto the centre marking of your top circle. With a needle and thread, stitch through all three layers until it is very securely held in place.

Step 4

Flatten the looped edges of stalk together, and handstitch closed with tiny stitches. Give it a good steam with your iron, then roll with your fingers to give it a rounder appearance.

Step 5

Place your outer top and bottom circles together with right sides facing and stitch together all the way around. Trim seam allowance and clip around curve. Repeat for lining pieces but leave a 10cm/ 4” gap in your stitching. Press seam allowances toward under circle.

Step 6

With your outer hat wrong side out, place your lining inside it with the right side out so that right sides are facing.

Step 7

Stitch together through both outer and lining under circles all the way around. Trim seam allowances and clip around curve. Turn through to the right side through gap in the lining.

Step 8

Pin, then stitch closed the gap in lining. Push lining to the inside of beret and give the edges a good press. Stitch a row of topstitching through both layers at opening to hold everything securely in place.

Voila!

Hat Pack - Bucket hat

Fusing

On the wrong side of fabric, fuse your outer top circle piece, your outer head band pieces and all four brim pieces.

Step 1

Place your outer head band pieces together and your lining head pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch together at side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Step 2

Working with your outer pieces, place the top circle piece into the top edges of head band pieces, lining up notches and seam allowances. Stitch together. Trip seam allowance and clip around curve. Press seam allowance down toward head band pieces.

Press the bottom seam allowance of head band up toward the wrong side, making sure it’s accurately 1cm all the way around. Set aside for now.

Step 3

Working with your lining pieces, place the top circle piece into the top edges of head band pieces, lining up notches and seam allowances. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance and clip around curve. Press seam allowance down toward head band pieces.

Step 4

Place your brim pieces together right sides facing. Stitch together at side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Step 5

Place the brim pieces together with right sides facing. Pin together along bottom edge. Stitch together.

Step 6

Trim seam allowance and clip around curve. Turn through to the right side and press really well getting the edge nice and crisp.

Step 7

Starting at the bottom edge of brim, stitch through all layers, all the way around brim at 1cm/0.39” intervals until you have about 2cm/0.78” left at the top edge. Trim threads. Press.

Step 8

With your hat lining right side out, place inside brim so that the right side of lining is facing the underside of brim. Pin together the raw edges, lining up seam allowances and notches. Stitch. Trim seam allowance and clip around curve. Push lining upwards through the brim so that the wrong side of lining is out. Press seam allowance of brim toward lining.

Step 9

Now place your finished upper hat over the top of lining, matching up seam allowances and pin securely in place.

Step 10

Topstitch in place all the way around. Press. Voila!

Wear that bucket had with pride!

Remy Shirt - Kids →

Remy Shirt - Kids

a step-by-step tutorial

Fusing

On the wrong side of fabric, fuse one of your collar stand pieces, your upper collar and two cuff pieces.

With the fusing strips you cut, fuse the centre front edge of each shirt front up to the first notch and the top edges of patch pockets from notches upward.

Step 1

Neaten the top edge of pocket, then fold down (at notches) so that right sides are facing and stitch down along side seams.

Clip corners and turn through to right side. Press.
Press remaining edges in 1cm/3⁄4”. Repeat for other pocket.

Step 2

Pin pocket flap pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch around the three edges as illustrated. Clip corners and trim seam allowance in half. Turn through to the right side, getting your points nice and crisp. Press well. Neaten top open edge. Repeat for other pocket flap.

Step 3

Transfer pocket placement marking from your pattern piece to the right side of front shirt with tailors chalk or pins.

Patch Pocket:

Align patch pocket, right side up, with markings and pin in place. Edge stitch pocket in place along side and bottom edges, creating a small triangle of stitching at each top edge for reinforcement.

Pocket Flap:

Line up the neatened edge of pocket flap with top pocket marking points. The right side of pocket flap should be facing the right side of shirt front. Stitch together along neatened edge with a 5mm/0.19” seam allowance. Press pocket flap down toward pocket and stitch in place along top edge of flap.

Repeat for other side.

Step 4

Fold the front placket towards the wrong side of fabric at the edge of fusing piece. Press. Fold over again the same width and press in place. Repeat for other front.

Step 5

Top stitch down along edge of placket to secure. Press. Repeat for other front.

Step 6

Fold your back piece in half with right sides facing. Stitch down a couple of stitches where the two notches meet. Open out and evenly distribute pleat on either side of stitchline. Stitch in place along top edge to secure with a 5mm/0.19” seam allowance.

Step 7

Sandwich back section of shirt between bottom edge of yoke pieces, with right sides together. Pin then stitch together through all three layers. Press yoke panels up away from back panel.

Step 8

Press the shoulder seams of the outer layer of back yoke back by 0.8cm/0.31”.

Step 9

Holding the outer yoke panel out of the way, pin the right side of inside yoke to wrong side of front panel at shoulder seam. Stitch together. Press seam allowance toward yoke. Repeat for opposite side.

Step 10

Working from the right side, place the pressed edge of yoke shoulder seam along the seam you just completed, slightly overlapping it and top stitch in place, enclosing the seam. Press. Repeat for opposite side.

Step 11

Open out sleeve at binding slit and place over sleeve binding piece with both right sides up. Stitch together, starting with a 0.75cm/0.29” seam allowance at each end stitching to a 2mm / 0.07” seam allowance at the centre point. Press seam allowance toward binding.

Step 12

Fold the other long edge of binding piece toward the wrong side 0.75cm/0.29” to meet the other edge. Press. Fold over again so that overlaps the stitch line and topstitch in place. Press.

Step 13

From the wrong side of sleeve, fold binding in half, with right sides of sleeve facing and stitch top point of binding together on a 45 degree angle starting from sleeve side of binding.

Step 14

Open sleeve out and press binding placket toward the wider section of sleeve. Baste binding in place along hem. Repeat for opposite sleeve.

Step 15

Fold pleat into place, matching up notches with the pleat excess folded toward placket opening. Stitch together along hem to hold in place. Repeat for opposite sleeve.

Step 16

Lay body section over sleeve with right sides together and pin in place, starting from bottom of armhole upwards on both front and back matching up notches. The centre notch on sleeve head lines up with shoulder seam of yoke. Evenly distribute any ease in the sleeve head while pinning. Stitch with the sleeve on the underside. Neaten edge. Repeat for opposite sleeve.

Step 17

Place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up and pin down to hemline and out to sleeve hem. Stitch together then neaten seam. Press. Repeat on opposite side.

Step 18

For each sleeve, you have two cuff pieces, one fused, one not fused. Fold the top edge of your fused cuff piece down toward the wrong side by 0.8cm/0.31”. Press in place. Make sure that it is accurately 0.8cm/0.31” all the way along.

Step 19

Place your unfused cuff piece underneath right side up, matching up the bottom edges. Pin together along side and bottom edges. Stitch with the fused side on top. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves. Turn through to the right side and give it a good press.

Step 20

With sleeve inside out, pin the open edge of cuff to the seam opening of sleeve, with right side of cuff facing the wrong side of sleeve. Stitch in place. Press seam allowance up so that it sits inside the cuff.

Step 21

Turn sleeve through to the right side and pin pressed edge of cuff up slightly overlapping stitch line. Top stitch in place. Press. Repeat the last four steps for opposite sleeve.

Step 22

Pin upper collar and under collar pieces together with right sides facing.

Stitch around side and top edges as illustrated. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners, being careful not to clip through your stitches.

Under stitch seam allowance toward under collar where you can.

Turn through to the right side and get your corners nice and sharp with a point turner. Press, holding the bottom edges of upper collar and under collar together. The stitch line should roll toward the under collar. Baste open edges together.

Step 23

Working with your fused collar stand piece, stitch 0.8cm/0.31” from bottom edge to form a guide line. Fold the bottom edge up at stitchline toward the wrong side. Press in place.

Step 24

Lay your unfused collar stand piece right side up. Place the raw edge of your collar piece, upper collar/right side up, onto the top edge of collar stand, lining up the two ends of collar with notches on collar stand and pin in place. Place your fused collar stand piece over the top sandwiching collar between and pin securely together through all layers.

Step 25

Stitch together along top edge. Trim seam allowance in half. Turn through to the right side and give it a good press.

Step 26

With your shirt right side up, place the raw edge of collar stand along raw edge of neckline. Pin together, matching up notches. Stitch together with an accurate 1cm/0.39” seam allowance. Press seam allowance upward into collar stand.

Step 27

Pin the collar stand closed, lining up the folded edge of collar stand, slightly overlapping the stitch line. Stitch together along edge. Press.

Step 28

Stitch a line 5mm from the hem edge of shirt.

With your iron, press the hem up along stitch line toward the wrong side.

Step 29

Fold up again another 5mm and press well. Top stitch in place. Press.

Step 30

Transfer button / buttonhole markings from pattern piece with tailors chalk or pins. Sew buttonholes down one side of the shirt front. The buttonholes should be vertical except for on the collar stand which should be horizontal. Make sure they are centred between your top stitch line and the edge.

Sew buttonholes onto sleeve cuffs. The buttonholes should be horizontal.

Before sewing on your buttons, place the side with the buttonholes over top of the other side and use pins to mark where your buttons should be placed. Sew on your buttons.

Alternatively you could use domes in the place of buttons/ buttonholes as we have for one of our samples. If so, using the same button placement provided, follow the directions that come with the domes for how to insert them.

You did it!

Ravine Dress

Step 1

Fold the shoulder seams of bodice section together with right sides facing. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Press seam allowances towards the back.

Step 2

Press your neck binding piece in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing. Pin binding around neckline on the right side with the open ends of binding facing neck edge. You should have three layers of fabric, the neckline of dress and the two open edges of binding. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and understitch toward binding. Fold binding through to the inside and press. Topstitch in place along the edge of binding.

Step 3

With right sides facing, place the front triangle piece onto the bottom corner of back triangle piece, matching notches. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Press.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin the shorter edge of back triangle piece to bodice section, matching up notches. The top point of back triangle should match up with centre back point of bodice section. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Press.

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin the long edge of back triangle piece to bodice section, so that the top point of back triangle matches up with centre back point of body section. Pin, wrapping around the bodice until you reach the other end. Stitch together. Neaten seam.

Step 6

Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing, matching notches. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 7

Pin sleeve and side seam dart together with right sides facing. Using chalk, mark on your stitch line, tapering from the 1cm stitch line through waist to a dart point about 8.5cm below dart opening. Stitch. Neaten seam and press seam allowance toward the back.

Step 8

Neaten both sleeve and hem edges. Turn sleeve hem up 2.5cm/1” and skirt hem up 5mm/0.2”. Pin in place then stitch. If you have a rolled hem foot, you might prefer to use that for the skirt hem.

Step 9

With right sides facing, stitch the two short edges of waist tie pieces together at one end. Press seam allowance open. Fold in half the other way with right sides facing, and stitch the long edges together. Trim seam allowance in half. Attach a safety pin to one end of tie and thread the tie through itself until it comes out the other end through the right way. Press. Tuck the ends of tie inwards and edgestitch closed. Pin the centre of your tie to the centre back point of the V on your dress. Attach with a couple of stitches. Give your dress a good press.

Voilà!

Celestia Dress - Bodice A →

Fusing

Fuse one of your front and back bodice pieces.

Step 1

Pin your unfused front & back bodice A pieces together at shoulder seams. Stitch together. Press seam allowances open. Repeat for your fused bodice A pieces.

Step 2

Place your fused and unfused bodice pieces together with right sides facing and pin together around neckline. Stitch. Trim seam allowances in half and clip around curves. Unerstitch seam allowance toward fused bodice. Turn through to the right side and press neckline well.

Step 4

Starting from one side seam of bodice, tightly roll bodice until you reach the armhole of the other side. Open up the two layers of armhole, and wrap around rolled portion of bodice sandwiched in half and clip around curves.

Carefully pull through to the right side and press armhole well.

Repeat on the other side.

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin together front and back bodice pieces at side seams, lining up armhole seam of fused and unfused sections. Stitch together. Press seams open. Fold down, so that all seams are on the inside.

Step 6

Press bodice sections well, then pin together bottom edges and baste closed 5mm/0.19” from edge.

Follow the rest of the steps for the skirt tiers, pockets and finishing on the Celestia dress B tutorial here.

Celestia Curve Dress - Bodice B

Celestia Curve Dress

Bodice B

a step-by-step tutorial

Fusing

Bodice B one front only

Step 1

Pin darts into place, matching up the notches on side seams with right sides facing. Pin to the punch hole as marked on your pattern piece. Stitch. Press dart excess downward. Repeat for other side and other front bodice.

Step 2

Cut a piece of string slightly longer than your strap piece and place it on top of the right side of strap. Fold strap in half lengthwise with right sides facing, sandwiching the string between. Stitch together securely at one end. Stitch down the long edge with a 1cm/0.39” seam allowance using a zipper foot so you can get nice and close. Be really careful not to stitch over the string inside. Clip the corner of the seam allowance on the string end, but do not trim seam allowance as this will bulk out your tie to give it a nice round look. Carefully pull the string, pulling the strap right side out. Trim string edge off. Repeat for other two straps.

For the two long straps, poke the ends of tie inwards with a needle and hand sew closed on one end.

Step 3

On the right side of fused front bodice, pin the open edges of the two long straps at notches. Stitch.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin your front and back bodice pieces together at side seams. Stitch. Press seams open. Do this for both bodice sections.

Step 5

Turn the fused bodice section right side out and wrap the unfused bodice section around it wrong side out so that right sides are facing. Line up side seams and strap notches and pin together. Stitch around top edge, stopping and starting your stitch line on either side of your back notches. Trim seam allowances in half and clip up to the stitch line at back notches on the outer layer only, being careful not to clip through your stitches.

Step 6

Press the clipped part of seam allowance open and the rest of the seam allowance toward the fused bodice section. Understitch in place.

Step 7

Place your back strap piece (strap 2) onto the understitched side of back bodice with the ends of strap overlapping the openings by about 2.5cm/1” with the raw ends facing each other. Stitch in place securely.

Poke the strap through the openings on each side until the strap has no excess.

Step 8

Form a casing by stitching 2.5 cm/1” from top edge through all layers of back bodice being really careful not to stitch through your strap.

Pull apart back strap loops and stitch just a couple of stitches between each loop. This will stop the strap from disappearing into the casing.

Step 9

Press bodice section well, then pin together bottom edges and baste closed 5mm/0.19” from edge.

Step 10

Place your front and back skirt tier 1 pieces together with right sides facing. Pin side seams together. Stitch. Neaten seams.

Step 11

With right sides facing, pin together your front skirt panels, matching up the four notches. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Press seam to one side. Repeat for back skirt panels.

Step 12

Place a pocket on a skirt tier 2 panel with right sides facing and match up notches. At the top notch on one side seam, stitch in 1.25cm/0.5”. With needle down, pivot your foot and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into corners, being careful not to cut through your stitches. Under stitch seam allowance toward pocket bag along pocket opening. Press pocket bag along pocket opening. Press pocket bag to wrong side of skirt, matching the top and bottom edges. Repeat for other side.

Step 13

Place another pocket bag on top with right sides facing and stitch together around edges. Neaten seam. Repeat for other side.

Step 14

Place your front and back skirt panels together with right sides facing. Pin side seams together. Stitch, being careful not to stitch your pockets closed. Neaten seams. Press.

Step 15

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches (the longest stitch length on your machine) along the top edge of both skirt tier 1 and skirt tier 2, keeping them sitting within the 1cm/0.39” seam allowance.

Step 16

Pin skirt tier 1 around bodice with right sides facing, matching the centre front, centre back and side seams. Pull the gathering threads and avengingly distribute gathers until it fits the bodice. Pin securely in place then stitch together. Neaten seam. Press.

Step 17

Pin skirt tier 2 around the bottom edge of skirt tier 1 with right sides facing, matching the centre front, centre back and sides seams. Pull gathering threads and evenly distribute gathers until it fits skirt tier 1. Pin securely in place then stitch together. Neaten seam. Press.

Step 18

Neaten hem edge of skirt, then turn up at notches toward the wrong side and top stitch in place.

Step 19

All that’s left to do is thread the front straps through the back loops for bodice B!

you did it!

Mirri Jumpsuit

Fusing

Fuse front and back neck facing pieces.

Step 1

With right sides facing, pin the front facing piece to the back facing pieces at shoulder seams. Stitch together and press open. Neaten outer edges and down centre back.

Step 2

Neaten centre front edge, side seams and waist seams of front bodice pieces. Neaten centre back seam, side seams and waist seams of back bodice pieces.

Step 3

Fold long edges of tie on front bodice together with right sides facing and pin. Stitch together from centre front, around curve and all the way down the edge to the end of the tie. Clip around curve and press seam allowance open.

Step 4

At the end of the tie, line up the centre of seam allowance with notch. Stitch both layers together. Clip corners then pull tie through to the right side and press, keeping the seam allowance of tie in the centre. Repeat for other tie.

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin front bodice pieces together at centre front seam. Stitch together, making sure to stop exactly at the tie stitch line. Press seam allowances open.

Step 6

With right sides facing, pin back bodice pieces to
the front bodice at shoulder seams. Stitch together. Neaten seams and press the seam allowances towards the back.

Step 7

With right sides together, pin neck facing to the bodice around neckline. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half. Understitch seam allowance toward facing pieces and press.

Step 8

Neaten side and hem edges of sleeve pieces.

Step 9

Lay bodice over sleeve with right sides facing. Pin in place starting from bottom of armhole upwards on both front and back, matching up front, back and shoulder notches. Evenly distribute any ease in the sleeve head while pinning. Stitch with sleeve laying under garment as the differential feed on your machine will help work in any ease. Neaten edge and press seam allowance toward sleeve. Repeat for opposite sleeve.

Step 10

Cut a small piece of fabric approximately 3cm x 6cm (1.2” x 2.4”) on the bias. Fold edges to centre, press. Fold in half again and stitch along edge. Press. Fold in half ready to stitch onto garment.

* You could also use a small piece of bias binding.

Step 11

Pull back neck facing out of the way, and place raw edges of loop on the right side of centre back seam. Pin in place with top edge of loop
at stitch line between bodice and facing. Stitch.

Step 12

Cut a small piece of fabric With right sides together, place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up. Pin down bodice side seams to waistline and up to sleeve or facing edge. Stitch and press seam allowances open.

Step 13

Turn sleeve hem up at notches and stitch in place.

Follow the rest of the steps for the pocket, trouser construction and finishings on the Mirri Jumpsuit-sleeveless tutorial here.

Mirri Jumpsuit

Fusing

Fuse front and back neck facing pieces. Place pocket fusing over notches on the wrong side of front trouser pieces and fuse in place.

Step 1

With right sides facing, pin the front facing piece to the back facing pieces at shoulder seams. Stitch together and press open. Neaten outer edges and down centre back.

Step 2

Neaten centre front edge, side seams and waist seams of front bodice pieces. Neaten centre back seam, side seams and waist seams of back bodice pieces.

Step 3

Fold long edges of tie on front bodice together with right sides facing and pin. Stitch together from centre front, around curve and all the way down the edge to the end of the tie. Clip around curve and press seam allowance open.

Step 4

At the end of the tie, line up the centre of seam allowance with notch. Stitch both layers together. Clip corners then pull tie through to the right side and press, keeping the seam allowance of tie in the centre. Repeat for other tie.

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin front bodice pieces together at centre front seam. Stitch together, making sure to stop exactly at the tie stitch line. Press seam allowances open.

Step 6

With right sides facing, pin back bodice pieces to
the front bodice at shoulder seams. Stitch together. Neaten seams and press the seam allowances towards the back.

Step 7

With right sides together, pin neck facing to the bodice around neckline. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half. Under stitch seam allowance in half. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing pieces and press.

Step 8

With right sides together, pin facing to bodice around armholes, matching notches. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half. Thread the bodice through the facings to the right side. Press around both armholes.

Step 9

Cut a small piece of fabric approximately 3cm x 6cm (1.2” x 2.4”) on the bias.

Fold edges to centre, press.

Fold in half again and stitch along edge. Press.

Fold in half ready to stitch onto garment.

* You could also use a small piece of bias binding.

Step 10

Pull back neck facing out of the way, and place raw edges of loop on the right side of centre back seam. Pin in place with top edge of loop
at stitch line between bodice and facing. Stitch.

Step 11

With right sides together, place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up. Pin down bodice side seams to waistline and up to facing edge. Stitch and press seams open.

Step 12

Neaten the crotch seam of front and back trouser pieces. If you want pockets in your jumpsuit, neaten the rounded edges of all four pocket bags. If you are making your jumpsuit without pockets, skip to step 18.

Step 13

Place pocket bag on to front pant with right sides facing and match up notches. At the top notch on one side seam, stitch in 1.2cm/0.5”. With needle down, pivot your foot and stitch down to the second notch, then pivot your foot again and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into corners, being careful not to cut through your stitches. Understitch seam allowance toward pocket 15 bag along pocket opening. Press.

Step 14

Place another pocket bag on top with right sides facing and stitch together around edges. Neaten seam. With pocket bag pressed in place behind front pant panel, edgestitch in place at top and bottom of pocket opening to secure. Repeat steps 16 - 17 for other side.

Step 15

With right sides facing, pin front crotch pieces together from waistline to inside leg. With right sides facing, pin back trouser pieces together from zip notch around crotch to inside leg. Stitch together. Press seam allowances open.

Step 16

With right sides facing pin front leg to back leg along side seam. Stitch together. Neaten and press seam allowance toward the back. Repeat for both leg side seams.

Step 17

Pin front inside leg to back inside leg with right sides together and stitch. Neaten seam allowance and press toward the back.

Step 18

Neaten the waist seam of pants.

Step 19

Attach the waistline of the bodice to the waistline of the trousers. With right sides together pin the centre front bodice seam to the centre front trouser seam. Pin out along from the centre front to match the bodice side seem to trouser side seam, to the bodice centre back matching the trouser centre back. Stitch pieces together making sure to start exactly at the centre front seam stitch line. Repeat for the other half of waist seam. Neaten seam and press seam allowance upward.

Step 20

Stitch left side of zip down centre back seam, starting at zip notch. Stitch right side of zip to other side of centre back seam. Pin at zip to match the centre back waist seam aligns in a straight line.

Step 21

Fold back neck facing over top of button loop, so that right sides are facing to the back shell. Pin in place down centre back seam, overlapping the top of the zip. Stitch. Turn through to right side and press.

Step 22

Neaten trouser hem edges and turn up 3cm/1.3”. Stitch in place.

Step 23

Pin seam allowance to facing at centre front neckline and under both armholes. Hand stitch in place.

Voilà!

Estella Top

Estella Top

a step-by-step tutorial

Fusing

Fuse neck facing piece.

Prep

Neaten:

- Bottom edge of neck facing piece.

- One short end of the each strap piece.

- The upper edge of each sleeve casing piece

- The upper edge of waist casing piece

Step 1

With right sides facing, place your waist casing piece onto the waistline of bodice. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half. Under stitch seam allowance toward casing and press over to the inside of bodice. Top stitch in place along top edge to form a casing. Press.

Step 2

Thread your waist elastic (2cm/0.8” wide) through the casing. Stitch edge in place through all layers on both sides.

Step 3

With right sides facing, pin neck facing piece to neckline. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves. Understitch seam allowance toward facing. Press.

Step 4

Cut two 12cm/4.75” [ieces of 1cm/0.39” wide elastic.

Fold strap piece in half with wrong sides together and press to come a centre line. Open back up and and pin one of your strap elastic pieces to one side of the centre fold line. Stitch to strap at top edge (opposite end to the neaten edge). Place a safety pin through the open end of elastic. This will be used later tp pull the elastic through the strap. Repeat for other strap.

Step 5

Open out the shoulder edge of bodice and facing. Line up the centre fold on strap piece with the seam line between bodice and bodice facing. Stitch together. Repeat on other side.

Step 6

Fold neckline facing through to the inside and press edge well. Baste facing to bodice 5mm from the edge of armholes to hold in place.

Step 7

Stitch a long gathering stitch between centre notch and double notch on each sleeve and between notches on armhole of each wrap bodice piece.

Step 8

With right sides facing, open up other edge of strap and stitch to wrap bodice, from the outer edge, only as far as the centre fold line of strap. Repeat on other side.

Step 9

Fold the strap closed and baste together along very edge to secure in place, being careful not to stitch through your elastic on the inside. Repeat on other side.

Step 10

With right side facing, pin sleeve and bodice together following the guidelines below. Once everything is gathered and lined up, stitch together. Neaten edge. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 11

Pull the strap elastic through strap casing. Remove safety pin and stitch securely in place. Repeat for other side.

Step 12

Press top edge, short end and bottom edge of wrap piece in toward the wrong side 1cm/0.39”. Top stitch in place. Repeat for other side.

Step 13

With right sides facing, pin your wrap bodice pieces in to place, matching up underarm and side seams. The hem of wrap pieces should meet bottom edge of waist casing. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Skip straight to sleeve casing step.

Step 14

Fold sleeve casing in half with right sides facing. Stitch short ends together. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for other sleeve casing.

Step 15

Place sleeve casing around sleeve hem edge with right sides facing, lining up the seam of casing with the seam of sleeve. Stitch together around edge. Trim seam allowance in half. Under stitch seam allowance toward casing. Turn through to the inside, press edges and top stitch in place leaving a 2.5cm/1” opening at underarm seam to thread elastic through.

Step 16

Cut your sleeve elastic piece in half.

Attach a small safety pin to one edge of your elastic and pin the other end to the seam allowance, right next to the hem opening. Thread safety pinned edge through the gap, threading through until it returns out the same hole.

Step 17

Remove pinned edge of elastic from seam allowance and remove safety pin from the other end. Overlap the two open ends of elastic and safety pin them together. Try the top on to check the fit of elastic. Adjust accordingly then stitch elastic together securely. Stretch out hem and sleeve casings until the stitched part of elastic is sitting within the facing, then stitch opening closed.

you did it!

Ashling Dress →

Step 1

Fold the front placket towards the wrong side of fabric at the edge of fusing piece. Press. Fold over again the same width and press in place. Repeat for other front.

Step 2

Top stitch down along edge of placket to secure. Press. Repeat for other front.

Step 3

Stitch a long gathering stitch (the longest stitch length on your

machine) between notches on back section. all the difference.

Step 4

Sandwich back section of blouse between bottom edge of yoke pieces, with right sides together. Pin yoke to back panel, starting from the outside edges, pinning together as far as notches. Pull your gathering threads on back panel until it fits between notches on yoke. Evenly distribute your gathers.

Step 5

Stitch together through all three layers. Press yoke panels up away from back panel.

Step 6

Press the shoulder seams of the outer layer of back yoke back by 0.8cm/0.31”.

Step 7

Holding the outer yoke panel out of the way, pin the right side of inside yoke to wrong side of front panel at shoulder seam. Stitch together. Press seam allowance toward yoke. Repeat for opposite side.

Step 8

Working from the right side, place the pressed edge of yoke shoulder seam along the seam you just completed, slightly overlapping it and top stitch in place, enclosing the seam. Press. Repeat for opposite side.

STEP 9

Lay body section over sleeve with right sides together and pin in place, starting from bottom of armhole upwards on both front and back matching up notches. The centre notch on sleeve head lines up with shoulder seam of yoke. Evenly distribute any ease in the sleeve head while pinning. Stitch with the sleeve on the underside. Neaten edge. Repeat for opposite sleeve.

SYEP 10

Place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet
up and pin down to hemline and out to sleeve hem. Stitch together then neaten seam. Press. Repeat on opposite side.

Step 11

Neaten hem edge of sleeve, then turn up at notches toward the wrong side and top stitch in place.

Step 12

With right sides facing, fold the short ends of your collar frill piece in half. Stitch together the short ends. Clip corners, then turn through to the right side. Press edges well. Baste open edges together right along the edge.

Step 13

Working with your fused collar stand piece, stitch 0.8cm/0.31” from bottom edge to form a guide line. Fold the bottom edge up at stitchline toward the wrong side. Press in place.

Step 14

Lay your fused collar stand piece right side up. Place the raw edge of your collar or frill piece wrong side up, onto the collar stand. Line up the two ends with notches on collar stand and pin in place.

Pull the gathering threads on your frill until it fits the collar stand. Evenly distribute gathers, then baste together along edge with a 5mm seam allowance.

Step 15

Pin your unfused collar stand piece over the top sandwiching collar between. Stitch with the fused side up. Trim seam allowance in half. Turn through to the right side and give it a good press.

Step 16

With your blouse/dress right side up, place the raw edge of collar stand along raw edge of neckline. Pin together, matching up notches. Stitch together with an accurate 1cm/0.39” seam allowance. Press seam allowance upward into collar stand.

Step 17

Pin the collar stand closed, lining up the folded edge of collar stand, slightly overlapping the stitch line. Stitch together along edge. Press.

Step 18

Place a pocket bag onto skirt panel with right sides facing and match up notches. At the top notch on one side seam, stitch in 1.2cm/0.5”. With needle down, pivot your foot and stitch down to the second notch, then pivot your foot again and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into corners, being careful not to cut through your stitches. Under stitch seam allowance toward pocket bag along pocket opening. Press pocket bag to wrong side of skirt, matching the top and bottom edges. Repeat for other side.

Step 19

Place another pocket bag on top with right sides facing and stitch together around edges. Neaten seam. Repeat for other side.

Step 20

Place your front and back waist frill pieces together with right sides facing. Pin side seams together. Stitch. Press seam allowances open. Fold in half to form a loop with all seams enclosed.

Step 21

Place your front and back skirt panels together with right sides facing. Pin side seams together. Stitch, being careful not to stitch your pockets closed. Neaten seams.

Step 22

Wrap waist frill around waist edge of skirt, with raw edges together. Line up side seams and pin together. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches (the longest stitch length on your machine) along the top edge of skirt through all three layers, keeping them sitting within the 1cm / 0.39” seam allowance.

Step 22

Overlap the front plackets of blouse section of dress at waist seam and

baste in place.

Step 23

Pin skirt around bodice with right sides facing, matching the centre front, centre back and side seams. Pull the gathering threads and evenly distribute gathers until the skirt fits the bodice. Pin securely in place then stitch together. Neaten seam.

Step 24

Neaten hem edge of skirt, then turn up at notches toward the

wrong side and top stitch in place.

Step 25

Transfer button / buttonhole markings from pattern piece with tailors chalk or pins. On your front bodice pattern piece, mark down 1cm from neckline edge, this will line up with your stitched neckline. Fold the pattern piece along the centre front using the top and bottom centre front notches, this will line up with the centre front outside edge of your bodice piece. Place the pattern piece ontop of you right bodice front pin the placement of the buttonholes through the paper onto your fabric.

Sew buttonholes down one side of the blouse front. The buttonholes should be vertical except for on the collar stand which should be horizontal. Make sure they are centred between your top stitch line and the edge.

Step 26

Before sewing on your buttons, place the side with the buttonholes over top of the other side and use pins to mark where your buttons should be placed. Sew on your buttons.

You did it!

Stacker Jacket- variation 2 pocket

Fusing

Fuse top layer of both pocket flaps.

Step 1

Place pocket bag between notches on the front piece (Piece 2) with right sides facing. Transfer stitch line guide from pattern piece. Stitch together along stitch line. Clip into corners. Turn pocket bag over to the wrong side and press. Fold bottom edge of pocket bag up to meet the top edge of pocket bag with right sides together. Holding the lower front panel out of the way, stitch pocket bag side seams together. Repeat for other pocket. Alternatively you could top stitch pocket bag edges onto front panel for a visible stitch line from the right side.

Step 2

Pin pocket flap pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch around the three edges as illustrated. Clip corners and trim seam allowance in half. Turn through to the right side. Press well. Line open edge of flap up with notches on upper front piece with right sides facing. Baste in place with a 5mm seam allowance. Repeat for other pocket.

Step 3

Place front yoke and front piece together with right sides facing. For Variation 2, the pocket flap should be sandwiched between, lining up with pocket bag below. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and press towards yoke. Top stitch in place. Repeat for other side.

Follow the rest of the steps for the jacket construction and finishings on the Stacker Jacket tutorial here.

Stacker Jacket

Fusing

Fuse front and back yokes. Using 6cm wide strips of fusing, fuse

both the hem and centre front edge of lower fronts, the edge of back hem and both sleeve hems. Fuse collar piece.

With patch pocket fusing (piece 14), fuse the top edge of patch pockets above notches.

Step 1

Neaten the top edge of pocket, then fold down (at notches) so that right sides are facing and stitch down along side seams. Clip corners and turn through to right side. Press.
Press remaining edges and bottom corners in 1cm/3⁄4”. If you would like to button your pocket, find the centre point of your pocket and sew your button hole onto your pocket.

Step 2

Transfer pocket placement marking from your pattern piece to the right side of front piece (piece 2) with tailors chalk or pins. Align patch pocket with markings and pin in place. Edge stitch pocket on along side and bottom edges, creating a small triangle of stitching at each top edge for reinforcement. Press. Repeat for other side.

Step 3

Place front yoke and front piece together with right sides facing. For Variation 2, the pocket flap should be sandwiched between, lining up with pocket bag below. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and press towards yoke. Top stitch in place. Repeat for other side.

Step 4

Place back yoke and back piece together with right sides facing. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half. Press seam allowance toward yoke and top stitch in place.

Step 5

Pin fronts to back at the shoulder and side seams with right sides facing. Stitch together. Press seams open.

Step 6

Fold sleeve in half with right sides facing and stitch seams together. Press seam open. Turn through to the right side. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 7

Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing matching notches and lining up sleeve seam with back yoke seam. Stitch around armhole. Pull through to right side.

TIP:

If you stitch with your
sleeve on the underside,
the differential feed on your sewing machine will help ease your sleeve into the armhole.

Step 8

Fold sleeve in half with right sides facing and stitch seams together. Press seam open. Turn through to the right side. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 9

Pin collar and under collar pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch around side and top edges as illustrated. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around corners. Turn through to the right side and press, holding the bottom edges of the collar and under collar together. The stitch line should roll toward the under collar. Baste bottom edges together.

Step 10

Pin your finished collar piece right side up onto the neck edge of jacket, lining up edges of collar with notches. Baste in place with a 5mm seam allowance.

Step 11

Pin your front lining piece to front jacket along centre front and around curved edge of neck facing with right sides together, matching up notches. Stitch, finishing your stitch line 1cm/0.39” up from bottom edge of lining. Trim seam allowance in half. Press seam allowance toward lining. Repeat on other side.

Step 12

Fold back lining in half with right sides facing, lining up notches on neckline. Stitch down 2.5cm/1” from notches.

Step 13

Open out, and evenly distribute pleat on each side of stitch line. Stitch in place 5mm/0.2” from top edge.

Step 14

Pin back lining to front lining at shoulders and side seams with right sides facing. Stitch together, leaving a 20cm/8” gap on one side seam only. Press seams open.

Step 15

Fold sleeve lining in half with right sides facing and stitch seams together. Press seams open. Turn through to the right side.

Step 16

Pin sleeve and armhole lining together with right sides facing matching up notches. Stitch around armhole.

Step 17

Fold back the centre front neckline at notch with right sides together, and wrap facing/lining around neckline with collar sandwiched between. Stitch all the way around the top edge of neckline. Trim the seam allowance in half, clip curves and corners. Under stitch seam allowance toward lining.

Step 18

Pull your lining to one side and your shell to the other with wrong sides out. Fold sleeve hems of shell up at edge of fusing and press in place.

Step 19

Fold your sleeves in to the centre to meet each other overlapping your lining over sleeve hem. Stitch edges of lining and sleeve hem together. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 20

Cut a small strip of lining about 3cm/1.2” in length x 1cm/0.4” in width. Stitch to the underarm/armhole seam allowance of both the jacket and lining, to stop the lining shifting when turned through to the right side. Repeat on other side.

Step 21

With right sides facing, pin bottom hem of lining to the raw edge of shell hem. Stitch together starting and stopping your stitch line 1cm from each end.

Step 22

Pinch together the remaining 1cm/0.39” excess of facing and hem. Stitch. Clip outer corner and press seam open. 18 Carefully pull jacket through the opening in side seam until it’s the right way out. Give your jacket a really good press all over.

Step 23

With jacket lining side out, hand sew side seam gap closed.

Step 24

From the right side of jacket, top stitch facings and hem in place 5cm/2” from edge.

Step 25

Transfer buttonhole markings from pattern piece 1 and 2 with tailors chalk or pins onto the front on your jacket. Start by folding the pattern pieces along the centre front foldline, marked on your pattern piece with notches. Lay the pattern piece on your jacket front alining at the centre front and mark in the buttonhole placement. Sew buttonholes. The buttonholes should be horizontal. (Oops! Somehow we managed to do ours vertically, not to worry, they will still work!)

Step 26

Before sewing on your buttons, place the side with the buttonholes over top of the other side and use pins to mark where your buttons should be placed then sew on your buttons.

You did it!

Luna Jacket - Lined

Fusing

On the wrong side of your cut out pieces, mark in pocket placement from your front pattern piece. Cut 4cm/1.6”wide strips of fusing and fuse the hemline of your front and back pieces, sleeves, and the top edge of pockets. Fuse your front and back neck facing pieces.

Step 1

Neaten all edges of pocket piece.

Fold down the top edge of pocket from notches, so that right sides are facing and stitch down along side seams. Clip corners and turn through to right side. Press. Press remaining edges and bottom corners in 1cm/0.39”.

Step 2

On your front bodice pieces, mark in pocket placement from your front pattern piece. Place pocket on front piece markings. Topstitch around sides and bottom, sewing small triangle in each top corner for added strength. Repeat on other side.

Step 3

With right sides facing, pin front pieces to back piece at the shoulder. Stitch and neaten seams. Press seam allowance open.

Step 4

Pin the the side seams of the front and back together. Starting from notch A (the armhole notch) Stitch side seams together all the way to the hem. Press seam allowances open.

Step 5

With right side together, pin the sleeve edges together from armhole to sleeve hem. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.

Step 6

With right sides together, place the sleeve inside the jacket front and back to match armhole edges. Place a pin where the sleeve underarm seam meets the jacket side seam. Pin around armhole, matching shoulder seam with sleeve centre notch. Start stitching from the underarm seam and stitch around armhole. Press. Repeat for other side.

Step 7

Fold hem and sleeve edges up at notches and press well forming a fold-line.

Step 8

With right sides facing, pin front & back neck facings together at shoulder seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.

Step 9

Fold back lining piece in half with right sides facing, and stitch down a couple of stitches at notch to form a pleat.

Step 10

Evenly distribute pleat on either side of seam and edge-stitch down along top edge. Press.

Step 11

Pin front and back lining together at shoulders. Stitch. Press seams open.

Step 12

Pin side seams with right sides facing. Stitch, leaving a 20cm/8” gap on one side seam only. Press seams open.

Step 13

With right sides facing, pin the sleeve lining edges together from armhole to sleeve hem. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.

Step 14

With right sides together place the sleeve lining inside the jacket front and back lining to match armhole edges. Place a pin where the sleeve underarm seam meets the jacket lining side seam. Pin around armhole, matching shoulder seam with sleeve centre notch. Start stitching from the underarm seam and stitch around armhole. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for other side.

Step 15

Pin outer edges of facing around neck opening of lining with right sides facing. Stitch together, starting and stopping your stitch-line at the notch closest to hem on facing/lining. Press seam allowance toward lining.

Step 16

With right sides together, pin facing to jacket shell all the way around neckline, matching notches and shoulder seams. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and under-stitch toward facing.

Step 17

Pull your lining to one side and your shell to the other with wrong sides out. Fold your sleeves in to the centre to meet each other. Overlap your sleeve lining over jacket sleeve. Stitch edges of lining and jacket sleeves together. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 18

With right sides facing, stitch bottom edge of facing to jacket shell, stopping your stitch-line 1cm/0.39” from open edge of facing.

Fold bottom edge of facing up out of the way. On shell only, from inside corner of hem cut-out, clip in a diagonal up to the end of your stitch-line, being careful not to cut through your stitches.

Clip outer corner of facing to reduce bulk when it’s turned through the right way.

Step 19

With right sides facing, pin lining hem to shell hem. Stitch together.

Step 20

From clipped corner, fold hem of jacket shell up at pressed edge, towards lining. Pivot at clipped corner until the side edge of hem lines up with facing edge. Pin together, sandwiching lining between, to form a pleat. Stitch.

Step 21

Carefully pull coat through the opening in side seam until its the right way out. With coat lining side out, either edge stitch or hand sew side seam gap closed.

Voilà!

Estella Skirt

Estella Skirt

a step-by-step tutorial

Prep

Neaten:

- Tope edge of skirt panels

- The side seams of all skirt panels

- All around each of your four pocket bags.

Step 1

Place two pocket bags on to skirt panel with right sides facing and line up between notches. Stitch together. Understitch seam allowance toward pocket bag. Repeat for other skirt panel.

Step 2

With right sides facing, pin front and back skirt pieces together at side seams and around pocket bags. Stitch together. Fold top edge of skirt over to the wrong side at fold line (as indicated on your pattern piece). Stitch in place to form a casing, leaving a 2.5cm/1” opening at one side seam to thread elastic through. Press.

Step 3

Cut your elastic according to the chart on page4/5

Attach a safety pin to one end of your elastic and thread safety pinned edge through the gap, threading through until it returns out the same hole. Remove the safety pin, overlap the two open ends of elastic and safety pin them together. Try the skirt on to check the fit of the elastic at waist. Adjust accordingly. Stitch ends of elastic at waist. Stretch out the waist casing until the stitched part the gap closed. Neaten seam allowance. Skip straight to hem frill - step 29.

Step 4

With right sides facing, stitch the short ends of hem frill pieces together. Neaten seams. Press. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top edge of each side of frill keeping them sitting within the 1cm/0.39” seam allowance. Neaten bottom edge of frill, then turn up the 1cm/0.39” toward the wrong side and top stitch in place.

Step 5

With right sides facing, line up the side seams and centre points of top edge of frill and skirt hem. Pin together at these points. Pull your gathering threads until the frill fits the hem of skirt. Evenly distribute gathers then pin securely together all the way around. Stitch. Neaten seam.

You did it!