Step 1
Fold the front placket towards the wrong side of fabric at the edge of fusing piece. Press. Fold over again the same width and press in place. Repeat for other front.
Step 4
Sandwich back section of blouse between bottom edge of yoke pieces, with right sides together. Pin yoke to back panel, starting from the outside edges, pinning together as far as notches. Pull your gathering threads on back panel until it fits between notches on yoke. Evenly distribute your gathers.
Step 5
Stitch together through all three layers. Press yoke panels up away from back panel.
Step 7
Holding the outer yoke panel out of the way, pin the right side of inside yoke to wrong side of front panel at shoulder seam. Stitch together. Press seam allowance toward yoke. Repeat for opposite side.
Step 11
Neaten hem edge of sleeve, then turn up at notches toward the wrong side and top stitch in place.
Step 12
With right sides facing, fold the short ends of your collar frill piece in half. Stitch together the short ends. Clip corners, then turn through to the right side. Press edges well. Baste open edges together right along the edge.
Step 13
Working with your fused collar stand piece, stitch 0.8cm/0.31” from bottom edge to form a guide line. Fold the bottom edge up at stitchline toward the wrong side. Press in place.
Step 14
Lay your fused collar stand piece right side up. Place the raw edge of your collar or frill piece wrong side up, onto the collar stand. Line up the two ends with notches on collar stand and pin in place.
Pull the gathering threads on your frill until it fits the collar stand. Evenly distribute gathers, then baste together along edge with a 5mm seam allowance.
Step 17
Pin the collar stand closed, lining up the folded edge of collar stand, slightly overlapping the stitch line. Stitch together along edge. Press.
Step 18
Place a pocket bag onto skirt panel with right sides facing and match up notches. At the top notch on one side seam, stitch in 1.2cm/0.5”. With needle down, pivot your foot and stitch down to the second notch, then pivot your foot again and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into corners, being careful not to cut through your stitches. Under stitch seam allowance toward pocket bag along pocket opening. Press pocket bag to wrong side of skirt, matching the top and bottom edges. Repeat for other side.
Step 20
Place your front and back waist frill pieces together with right sides facing. Pin side seams together. Stitch. Press seam allowances open. Fold in half to form a loop with all seams enclosed.
Step 22
Wrap waist frill around waist edge of skirt, with raw edges together. Line up side seams and pin together. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches (the longest stitch length on your machine) along the top edge of skirt through all three layers, keeping them sitting within the 1cm / 0.39” seam allowance.
Step 23
Pin skirt around bodice with right sides facing, matching the centre front, centre back and side seams. Pull the gathering threads and evenly distribute gathers until the skirt fits the bodice. Pin securely in place then stitch together. Neaten seam.
Step 25
Transfer button / buttonhole markings from pattern piece with tailors chalk or pins. On your front bodice pattern piece, mark down 1cm from neckline edge, this will line up with your stitched neckline. Fold the pattern piece along the centre front using the top and bottom centre front notches, this will line up with the centre front outside edge of your bodice piece. Place the pattern piece ontop of you right bodice front pin the placement of the buttonholes through the paper onto your fabric.
Sew buttonholes down one side of the blouse front. The buttonholes should be vertical except for on the collar stand which should be horizontal. Make sure they are centred between your top stitch line and the edge.
Step 26
Before sewing on your buttons, place the side with the buttonholes over top of the other side and use pins to mark where your buttons should be placed. Sew on your buttons.