Estella Dress

Fusing

-On the wrong side of bodice piece, using either seam stay tape or 1.5cm/0.6” wide strips of fusing, fuse the waist seam, leaving the space between notches unfused. Make sure it measures the same as your pattern piece.

-Fuse neck facing piece

-Fuse both gather facing pieces

Neaten

-Bottom edge of neck facing piece

-One short end of each strap piece.

-The upper edge of each sleeve casing piece.

-All around each of your four pocket bags.

-The upper edge of skirt panel B

-The side seam of all skirt panels.

Step 1

Stitch a gathering stitch (the longest stitch length on your machine) between the notches as illustrated about 5mm / 0.2” from the waist edge.

Step 2

With the right side of gather facing piece, facing the wrong side of bodice, pin together at notches. Pull your gathering threads until it fits between the notches on the gather facing piece. Evenly distribute gathers, then stitch together 0.9cm/0.35” from edge. Press the gather piece along stitch line, so that the top edge meets the bottom edge. Repeat on other side.

Step 3

With right sides facing, pin neck facing piece to neckline. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves. Understitch seam allowance toward facing. Press.

Step 4

Cut two 12cm/4.75” pieces of wide elastic.

Fold strap piece in half with wrong sides together and press to create centre line. Open back up and pin one of your strap elastic pieces to one side of the centre fold line. Stitch to strap at top edge (opposite end to the neatened edge)/ Place a safety pin through the open end of elastic. This will be used later to pull the elastic through the strap. Repeat for other strap.

Step 5

Open out the shoulder edge of bodice and facing. Line up the centre fold of strap piece with the seam line between bodice and bodice facing. Stitch together. Repeat on other side.

Step 6

Fold neckline facing through to the inside and press edge well. Baste facing to bodice 5mm from the edge of armholes to hold in place.

Step 7

Stitch a long gathering stitch between centre notch and double notch on each sleeve, and between notches on armhole of each wrap bodice piece.

Step 8

With right sides facing, open up neatened edge of strap and stitch to wrap bodice, from the outer edge, only as far as the centre fold line of strap. Repeat on other side.

Step 9

Fold the strap closed and baste together along very edge to secure in place, being careful not to stitch through your elastic on the inside. Repeat on other side.

Step 10

With right sides facing, pin sleeve and bodice together following the notch guidelines below. Once everything is gathered and lined up, stitch together. Neaten edge. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 11

Pull the strap elastic through strap casing. Remove safety pin and stitch securely in place. Repeat for other side.

Step 12

Press top and bottom edge of wrap piece in towards the wrong side 0.5cm/0.2”. Fold over again another 0.5cm/0.2” enclosing the raw edge. Top stitch in place. Now do the same double roll for the short end. Repeat for other side.

Step 13

Place two pocket bags on to skirt panel with right sides facing and line up between notches. Stitch together. Understitch seam allowance toward pocket bag. Repeat for other skirt panel.

Step 14

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches (the longest stitch length on your machine) along the top edge of skirt side A, keeping them sitting within the 1cm / 0.39” seam allowance.

Step 15

With right sides facing, line up the edges and centre points of bodice and skirt waist seams. Pin together at these points. Pull your gathering threads until the waist of skirt fits the waist of bodice. Evenly distribute gathers then pin securely together all the way along. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward bodice.

Step 16

Fold top edge of skirt over to the wrong side at foldline (as indicated on your pattern piece). Stitch in place to form a casing. Press.

Step 17

Thread your waist elastic (2cm / 0.8” wide) through the casing. Stitch edge in place through all layers on one side only. Safety pin in place on the other side.

Step 18

Place skirt panel B onto skirt A with right sides facing. Line up waist seam of bodice/skirt A with the waistband casing stitch line of skirt B. The top of waistband should line up with notch on bodice. Pin together side seams and around pocket bags. Stitch, starting below the waistband on the safety pinned side.

Step 19

With right sides facing, pin your wrap bodice pieces in to place, matching up underarm and side seams. The hem of wrap pieces should meet top edge of skirt waistband. Stitch together. Try your dress on and adjust open edge of elastic to fit perfectly. Once that’s done, secure open edge of waistband and neaten edges from underarms down to waist on each side.

Step 20

Fold sleeve casing in half with right sides facing. Stitch short ends together. Press seam allowance open. Repeat for other sleeve casing.

Step 21

Place sleeve casing around sleeve hem edge with right sides facing, lining up the seam of casing with the seam of sleeve. Stitch together around edge. Trim seam allowance in half. Understitch seam allowance toward casing. Turn through to the inside, press edges and top stitch in place leaving a 2.5cm/1” opening at underarm seam to thread elastic through.

Step 22

Cut your remaining piece of 1cm/0.39” wide elastic piece in half. Attach a small safety pin to one edge of your elastic and pin the other end to the seam allowance, right next to the hem opening. Thread safety pinned edge through the gap, threading through until it returns out the same hole.

Step 23

Remove pinned edge of elastic from seam allowance and remove safety pin from the other end. Overlap the two open ends of elastic and safety pin them together. Try the dress on to check the fit of elastic. Adjust accordingly then stitch elastic together securely. Stretch out hem and sleeve casings until the stitched part of elastic is sitting within the casing, then stitch opening closed.

Step 24

With right sides facing, stitch the short ends of hem frill pieces together. Neaten seams. Press. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top edge of each side of frill keeping them sitting within the 1cm / 0.39” seam allowance. Neaten bottom edge of frill, then turn up 1cm / 0.39” toward the wrong side and top stitch in place.

Step 25

With right sides facing, line up the side seams and centre points of top edge of frill and skirt hem. Pin together at these points. Pull your gathering threads until the frill fits the hem of skirt. Evenly distribute gathers then pin securely together all the way around. Stitch. Neaten seam.

You did it!

Ashling Cropped Blouse

Fusing

On the wrong side of fabric, fuse one of your collar stand pieces, your upper collar and two cuff pieces.

With the fusing strips you cut, fuse the centre front edge of each front blouse up to the first notch.

Step 1

Fold the front placket towards the wrong side of fabric at the edge of fusing pice. Press. Fold over again the same width and press in place. Repeat for other front.

Step 2

Top stitch down along edge of placket to secure. Press. Repeat for other front.

Step 3

Stitch a long gathering stitch (the longest stitch length on your machine) between notches on back section.

Step 4

Sandwich back section of blouse between bottom edge of yoke pieces, with right sides together. Pin yoke to back panel, starting from the outside edges, pinning together as far as notches. Pull your gathering threads on back panel until it fits between notches on yoke. Evenly distribute your gathers.

Step 5

Stitch together through all three layers. Press yoke panels up away from back panel.

Step 6

Press the shoulder seams of the outer layer of back back yoke back by 0.8cm/0.31”

Step 7

Holding the outer yoke panel out of the way, pin the right side of inside yoke to wrong side of front panel at shoulder seam. Stitch together. Press seam allowance toward yoke. Repeat for opposite side.

Step 8

Working from the right side, place the pressed edge of yoke shoulder seam along the seam you just completed, slightly overlapping it and top stitch in place, enclosing the seam. Press. Repeat for opposite side.

Step 9

Open out sleeve at binding slit and place over sleeve binding piece with both right sides up. Stitch together, starting with 0.75cm/0.29” seam allowance at each end stitching to a 2mm/0.7”seam allowance at the centre point. Press seam allowance toward binding.

Step 10

Fold the other long edge of binding piece toward the wrong side 0.75cm/0.29” to meet the other edge. Press. Fold over again so that overlaps the stitch line and topstitch in place. Press.

Step 11

From the wrong side of sleeve, fold binding in half and stitch top point of binding together on a 45 degree angle starting from sleeve side of binding.

Step 12

Open sleeve out and press binding placket toward the wider section of sleeve. Baste binding in place along hem.

Repeat all sleeve placket instructions for the other sleeve.

Step 13

Lay body section over sleeve with right sides together and pin in place, starting from bottom of armhole upwards on both front and back matching up notches. The centre notch on sleeve head lines up with shoulder seam of yoke. Evenly distribute any ease in the sleeve head while pinning. Stitch with the sleeve on the underside. Neaten edge. Repeat for opposite sleeve.

Step 14

Place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up and pin down to hemline and out to sleeve hem Stitch together then neaten seam. Press. Repeat on opposite side.

Step 15

Stitch a long gathering stitch (the longest stitch length on your machine) right along hem edge of sleeve on either side of placket.

Step 16

With right sides facing, fold the short ends of your cuff frill piece in half. Stitch together the short ends. Clip corners, then turn through to the right side. Press edges well. Stitch a long gather stitch through both layers of open edge within the seam allowance.

Step 17

You have two cuff pieces, one fused, one not fused. Fold the bottom edge of your fused cuff piece up toward the wrong side by 0.8cm/0.31”. Press in place. Make sure that it is accurately 0.8cm/0.31” all the way along.

Step 18

Lay your fused cuff piece right side up, place the raw edge of your cuff frill onto the cuff. Line up the two ends with notches on cuff and pin in place. Pull the gathering threads on your frill until it fits between the notches on cuff. Evenly distribute gathers, then baste together along edge with a 5mm seam allowance.

Place your unfused cuff piece over the top with wrong side up, sandwiching the frill between. Pin together along top and side edges. Stitch with the fused side on top. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners. Turn through to the right side and give it a good press.

Step 19

With sleeve inside out, in the open edge of cuff to the seam opening of sleeve. Pull your gathering threads until the sleeve opening fits the cuff. Make sure your gathers are evenly spread, then stitch in place. Press seam allowance up so that it sits inside the cuff.

Step 20

Turn Sleeve through to the right side and pin pressed edge of cuff up slightly overlapping stitch line. Top stitch in place. Press.

Repeat the last five steps for opposite sleeve.

Step 21

Pin upper collar and under collar pieces together with right sides facing.

Stitch around side and top edges as illustrated. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves, being careful not to clip through your stitches.

Understitch seam allowances toward under collar.

Turn though to the right side and press, holding the bottom edges of upper collar and under collar together. The stitch line should roll toward the under collar. Baste open edges together,

Step 22

Working with your fused collar stand piece, stitch 0.8cm/0.31” from bottom edge to form a guide line. Fold the bottom edge up at stitch line toward the wrong side. Press in place.

Step 23

Lay your fused collar stand piece right side up. Place the raw edge of your collar or frill piece, under collar/ wrong side up, onto the collar stand. Line up the two ends with notches on collar stand and pin in place.

Baste collar and stand together along edge with a 5mm seam allowance.

Step 24

Pin your unfused collar stand piece over the top sandwiching collar between. Stitch with the fused side up. Trim seam allowance in half. Turn through to the right side and give it a good press.

Step 25

With your blouse/dress right side up, place the raw edge of collar stnad alog raw edge of neckline. Pin together, matching up notches. Stitch together with an accurate 1cm/0.39” seam allowance. Press seam allowance upward into collar stand.

Step 26

Pin collar stand closed, lining up the folded edge of collar stand, slightly overlapping the stitch line. Stitch together along edge. Press.

Step 27

Place your front and back waist frill pieces together with right sides facing. Pin side seams together. Stitch. Press seam allowances open. Fold in half lengthwise with right sides facing. Stitch together the short ends. Clip corners, then turn through to the right side. Press edges well.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the open edge of frill through both layers, keeping them sitting within the 1cm/0.39” seam allowance.

Step 28

Place the open edge of waist frill along hemline with right sides facing. Pin together at centre front points and at both side seams. Pull the gathering threads on your frill until it fits the hemline. Evenly distrubute gathers, then stitch together. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward blouse.

Step 29

Transfer button / buttonhole markings from pattern piece with tailors chalk or pins. On your front bodice pattern piece fold along the centre front, using the top and bottom centre front notches, this will line up with the front outside edge of your bodice. On your pattern piece mark down 1cm from neckline edge, this will line up with your stitched neckline. Place the pattern piece ontop of you right bodice front, pin the placement of the buttonholes through the paper onto your fabric.

Sew buttonholes down one side of the blouse front. The buttonholes should be vertical expert for on the collar stand which should be horizontal. Make sure they are centred between your top stitch line and the edge.

Before sewing on your buttons, place the side with the buttonholes over top of the other side and use pins to mark where your buttons should be placed. Sew on your buttons.

Sew buttonholes onto sleeve cuffs. The buttonholes should be horizontal.

Sew on cuff buttons.

You did it!

Sierra Jumpsuit →

Fusing

On the wrong side of fabric, fuse front and armhole edges of front bodice lining pieces. Fuse Back Facing. Place pocket fusing over notches on front trouser pieces and fuse in place.

Step 1

Stitch tie facing to bodice B lining. Apply bias binding to bottom edges of front bodice A lining & back facing pieces.

Step 2

Stitch darts in place on both front bodice pieces & both bodice lining pieces. Press dart excess downwards.

Step 3

With right sides facing, pin tie pieces to front bodice A & front bodice A lining, at side edge. Stitch together. Press seam allowance toward tie.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin front lining pieces to back facing piece at shoulder seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin back pieces together along centre back seam. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press. 

Step 6

With right sides facing, pin front bodice pieces to back panel at shoulder seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.

Step 7

With right sides facing, pin bodice lining/facing pieces to shell all the way around edges. Stitch together, following diagram as to where to start & stop stitching. Trim seam allowance in half & clip corners. Under-stitch seam allowance toward lining where you can. On bodice side B, stitch in 1.2cm/0.47” from the side seam at notch A. Stitch between notches keeping a 1.2cm/0.47” seam allowance. Pivot your needle again at notch B and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into corners, being careful not to cut through your stitch line. 

Step 8

Stitch armholes of shell and lining together. Trim seam allowances in half. Pull through to right side and press all edges well.

Step 9

Baste together side seams of Bodice B & Bodice B lining. Neaten seam on either side of waist tie slit. Open out the side seams of bodice A/bodice A lining and back/back facing and neaten seams.

Step 10

Neaten edges of all four pocket pieces and side seams of trouser fronts.

Step 11

Place pocket bag over trouser front at side seam with right sides facing, matching up notches. Starting at side seam, stitch 1.2cm/0.47” in, then pivot needle and stitch between notches keeping a 1.2cm/0.47” seam allowance. Pivot needle again, and stitch out to side seam. Clip into corners, being careful not to cut through your stitch line. Under-stitch seam allowance toward pocket bag. Turn through to inside and press.

Step 12

With right sides facing, place matching pocket bag over attached pocket bag, and stitch together around edges. Fold pocket bag behind trouser front. Press,  then edge-stitch at top and bottom edges of pocket to secure in place. Repeat for other pocket.

Step 13

With right sides facing, pin front trouser pieces together along front crotch seam. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press. 

Step 14

Pin top edge of front trouser panel to waist seam of bodice piece A. Stitch together stopping your stitch-line 1cm/0.39” from the edge of trouser on the tie end. Press seam up toward bodice.

Step 15

With right sides facing, match up the side seam of front bodice B with corresponding back side seam, lining up the top edge of bodice B with the seam-line between back and back facing. Fold the back facing over the top, sandwiching the top edge of bodice B between. Stitch together, stopping your stitch-line at the top edge of waist tie slit. Clip top corner of facing then turn through to the right side. Press.

Step 16

With right sides facing, overlay your front leg panel onto the same seam. Folding the tie out of the way, line up waist seam-line of pant with bottom edge of waist tie slit. Pin front and back side leg seam together, sandwiching the bottom edge of bodice B between. Stitch together starting at bottom edge of waist tie slit. Press 

Step 17

On the opposite side seam, fold your facings up out of the way and insert invisible zipper.

Fold facings over to the right side and bag out along edge of zipper tape. Clip top corners and turn through to the right side.

Step 18

Pin together leg side seams below zipper and stitch. Press seams open.

Step 19

Pin together inside leg seams, matching up front and back crotch seams and leg notches. Stitch together. Press.

Step 20

Neaten hem edges. Fold hems up to desired length, pin in place, then stitch. 

Step 21

From the right side, stitch in the ditch along waistline to catch facing underneath. Alternatively you could hand-stitch for a neater finish.

Voilà!

Aura Skirt →

Fusing

Fuse skirt front edge facing, front waist, centre back waist and side back waist facing pieces.

Step 1

With right sides facing pin tie A to tie B on the diagonal. Stitch. Press seam allowance open.

Step 2

Fold tie in half along long edge with right sides facing and pin in place. You may want to mark in your stitch line first with some tailors chalk, like we have here, as a guide. Stitch around tie edge leaving the short end open. Trim seam allowance in half and clip at point. Turn through to the right side and press well. Repeat steps 1 & 2 for the other tie. Put ties aside until needed.

Step 3

With right sides together, pin side back waist facing to centre back waist facing, matching notches. Stitch together. Clip seam allowance at waist point and press seam allowance open. Repeat for other side back piece.

Step 4

Neaten bottom edge of front & back waist facings. Neaten the long straight edge and hem of front skirt facing. Neaten side seams of front and back skirt pieces. 

Note: You may want to mark in any notches on these seams with chalk first. 

Step 5

With right sides together, pin front waist facing to neatened straight edge of front skirt facing. Stitch. Press seam allowance towards waist facing.

Step 6

With right sides together, pin the front skirt facing over the right front skirt piece (right side when worn), at side seam. At the top notch on the side seam, stitch in 1.2cm/0.5”, pivot your needle and stitch down to the second notch. Pivot your needle again and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into the corners, and under-stitch the seam allowance toward the facing on the long stitchline between notches. Once turned through, this will become the opening for your waist tie to thread through.

Step 7

Pin the facing to skirt front along waistline on both sides. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half and under stitch toward facing where you can. Turn through to the inside and press.

Step 8

Mark darts onto wrong side of fabric on skirt back. With right sides facing, pin darts in place. Stitch, pivoting at waist point. Press dart excess towards the centre.

Step 9

Fold belt loop strip in half length ways and press. Fold short ends of belt loop strip to centre again and press.  Fold in half again so that the folded edges are together and stitch in place. Top stitch other edge to match. 

Cut your belt loop strip into 2 x 10cm belt loops.

Step 10

Pin your belt loops to the top edge of your back facing piece, in line with the side back seamlines. Stitch in place.

Step 11

With right sides together, pin the back facing to the skirt back piece along waist line with beltloops sandwiched between. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half and under stitch towards the facing.

Step 12

Folding the back facing up out of the way, pin the skirt front to skirt back at side seam, with right sides facing. Line the top edge of the front skirt up with the seam line between back skirt and facing.

Fold the back facing over, sandwiching the skirt front between. Stitch, being careful not to stitch your waist tie opening (that you created in step 22) closed. Turn skirt through to the right way out and press. Repeat for other front.

Step 13

Pin open end of tie (that you made in step 1-2) to right side of skirt front, placing top edge of the tie to meet the waistline stitching. Make sure to pull skirt facing pieces out of the way. Stitch together with a 5mm/0.2” seam allowance. Repeat for other front piece. Folding skirt facing over tie, with right sides together, pin to skirt along front edge. Stitch together along front edge, pivot at hem and stitch along hem to end of facing edge. Trim seam allowance in half and clip at corners. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Turn facing through to the inside. Press edges well.

Step 14

Neaten skirt hem edge. Pin hem edge up 3cm/1.3”.
Starting at the point where the front facing meets the finished hemline, stitch up 3cm/until you reach the neatened hem edge. Pivot needle and stitch all along hem until you reach the front facing on the side. Pivot needle again and stitch down until you get to hemline to finish. 

Step 15

Press front skirt facing in place, then topstitch or slipstitch along edge to secure.

Step 16

Press open edges of beltloops under 1cm and topstitch along bottom edge of beltloop down where it folds to, centred with dart. Press.

Voilà!

Aura Dress →

Fusing

Fuse front neck, back neck and skirt front facings pieces.

Step 1

With right sides facing pin tie A to tie B on the diagonal. Stitch. Press seam allowance open.

Step 2

Fold tie in half along long edge with right sides facing and pin in place. You may want to mark in your stitch line first with some tailors chalk, like we have here, as a guide. Stitch around tie edge leaving the short end open. Trim seam allowance in half and clip at point. Turn through to the right side and press well. Repeat steps 1 & 2 for the other tie. Put ties aside until needed.

Step 3

Pin darts in place on both front pieces and stitch in place. Press dart excess downwards.

Step 4

Neaten side seam edges on both front and back pieces. 

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin front dress pieces to back dress piece at shoulder seams. Stitch together. Neaten and press seam allowance towards the back.

Step 6

With right sides together, pin front neck facing pieces to back neck facing piece at shoulder seams. Stitch together. Press seam allowances open.

Step 7

With right sides together, pin neck facing pieces to front skirt facing pieces along upper straight edge, matching notches. Stitch. Turn to the right side and press seam allowance toward long edge of skirt facing. Neaten outer edges of facing pieces.

Step 8

With right sides together, pin facing pieces around neck edge of dress. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves. Clip into the ‘V’ at centre back of dress, making sure not to clip through your stitch line. Under stitch seam allowance toward facings. Turn facings through to the inside and press.

Step 9

Pin back neck facing flat to dress back. Starting from one shoulder seam, topstitch around edge of facing piece, pivot at the ‘V’ and topstitch back up to finish at the other shoulder seam. Press.

Step 10

Pin open end of tie (that you made in step 1-2) to right side of dress front. Line up the top edge of tie with the stitch line between dress and facing. Make sure to pull skirt facing out of the way. Stitch tie in place with a 5mm/0.2” seam allowance. Repeat for other side.

Step 11

Fold skirt facing over tie and pin to dress along front edge. Stitch together, pivot at hem and stitch along hem to end of facing edge. Trim seam allowance in half, clip corners and around curve. Under-stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Turn facing through to the inside. Press edges well.

Step 12

Neaten sleeve side seams and hem edge. With right sides facing, pin sleeve head to armhole, matching notches. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance towards sleeve.

Step 13

With right sides facing, place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up. Pin out to sleeve hem and down to dress hem. On one side of dress, leave an opening between the tie notches on the side seam. Press seams open.

Top stitch around the tie opening.

Step 14

Pin the sleeve hems up at notches. Stitch in place leaving a 2.5cm/1” gap to thread elastic.

Step 15

Cut your elastic according to the chart in your instruction booklet. Attach a small safety pin to one edge of your elastic and pin the other end to the seam allowance, right next to the opening. Thread safety pinned edge through the gap, threading through until it returns out the same hole. Remove pinned edge of elastic from seam allowance and remove safety pin from the other end. Overlap the two open ends of elastic and safety pin them together. Try the dress on to check the fit of the elastic at sleeve hems. Adjust accordingly then stitch elastic securely together. Stretch out the sleeve casing until the stitched part of the elastic is sitting within the casing. Stitch gap closed.

Step 16

Neaten dress hem edge. Pin hem up 3cm/1.3”. 

Starting at the point where the front facing meets the folded hemline, stitch up 3cm/1.3” until you reach the neatened hem edge. Pivot needle and stitch all along hem until you reach the front facing on the side, pivot needle again and stitch down to folded hemline to finish. 

Step 17

Press front skirt facing in place, then slipstitch along edge to secure.

Voilà!

Tula Pants →

Fusing

On the wrong side of your front pant piece, fuse the fly with fly fusing piece. Fuse the edge of pocket opening with pocket fusing piece. Place a small square of fusible interfacing over the buttonhole markings on the wrong side of waistband and press in place.

Step 1

Place pocket bag on to front pant with right sides facing and match up notches. At the top notch on one side seam, stitch in 1.2cm/0.5”. With needle down, pivot your foot and stitch down to the second notch, then pivot your foot again and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into corners, being careful not to cut through your stitches. Understitch seam allowance toward pocket bag along pocket opening. Press.

Step 2

Press pocket bag to wrong side of pant, matching the top and bottom edges. Topstitch pocket opening 6mm/0.2” from edge through all layers.

Step 3

Place another pocket bag on top with right sides facing and stitch together around edges. Neaten seam. With pocket bag pressed in place behind front pant panel, edgestitch in place at top and bottom of pocket opening to secure. Repeat steps 1 - 3 for other side.

Step 4

With right sides facing, stitch centre fronts together around faux fly facings and front crotch. Neaten seam. Stitch down a couple of stitches from the top at centre front notch to secure.

Step 5

Unfold front sections so it sits flat. Fold the fly facing toward the fused side and press in place. Pin the layers together at centre front so that it all stays in place. From the wrong side, topstitch down through fly facings and front panel, around edge of facing until you get to your crotch seam. Press.

Step 6

With right sides facing, pin back pant pieces together along back crotch. Stitch. Neaten seams. Press.

Step 7

With right sides facing, pin front and back pant pieces together at side seams. Stitch together, being careful not to stitch your pocket openings closed. Neaten and press seam allowance toward back.

Step 8

With right sides facing, pin inside leg seams together, matching front and back crotch seams and notches. Stitch. Neaten and press seam allowance toward back.

Step 9

From the right side of waistband, mark in buttonhole placement. Stitch buttonholes in place. Cut buttonholes open.

Step 10

Fold waistband in half with right sides facing. Pin the short ends together and stitch. Press seam allowance open.

Step 11

With wrong sides together, press the waistband in half so raw edges meet. Pin both raw edges of the waistband to the top edge of the pants with right sides facing. Match the side seams of pants to notches, centre back seams together and centre front of pants to centre front of waistband. Stitch together through all layers, leaving a 5cm/2” opening at the centre back.

Step 12

Cut your elastic according to the chart in your instruction booklet.
Attach a safety pin to one end of your elastic and thread safety pinned edge through the gap, threading through until it returns out the same hole.

Remove the safety pin, overlap the two open ends of elastic and safety pin them together. Try the pants on to check the fit of the elastic at waist. Adjust accordingly. Stitch ends of elastic securely together. Stretch out the waist casing until the stitched part of the elastic is sitting within the casing, then stitch the gap closed. Neaten seam allowance.

Please note: If you’re planning on topstitching the waistband, make your elastic a bit firmer to allow for any stretching that may happen while you’re topstitching. 

Step 13

Place a pin at the centre front, centre back and side seams to hold the elastic in place. Stitch through all layers of your waistband, all the way around on either side of buttonholes (as marked on your waistband pattern piece), stretching waistband out to fit as you sew.

Step 14

Stitch together the short ends of drawstring pieces with right sides facing. Press seam allowance open, then fold in half the other way with right sides facing and stitch the long ends together. Trim seam allowance in half. Attach a safety pin to one end of tie and thread the tie through itself until it comes out the other end through the right way. Press. Tuck the ends of tie inwards and edgestitch closed.

Step 15

Attach a safety pin to one end of your drawstring. Thread through casing from one buttonhole and coming out the other. If using a pre-made cord drawstring, tie a knot at the very end of each tie to stop it unravelling.

Step 16

Neaten hem edges. Turn hem up at notches, towards the inside of the pants /shorts and pin in place. Stitch.

Voilà!

The Coppelia Cardi →

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Step 1

Pin front sleeve head to front panel with right sides facing and stitch. Neaten seam edges.
Repeat for opposite sleeve front.

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Step 2

Pin back sleeve head to back panel with right sides facing and stitch. Neaten seam edges. Repeat for opposite sleeve back.

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Step 3

With right sides facing, stitch both neck bands together at centre back.  Press seam open then press entire neck band in half lengthwise.

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Step 4

Line up centre seam of neck band with the centre back neckline of cardi. Place a pin here then starting from this point, pin band to cardi, lining up the notches on neckband to the front sleeve seam. Continue pinning band all the way to the bottom point stretching the band on as you pin it down.  Repeat on other side of centre back point. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward cardi.
If you’re making the faux wrap variation, skip to step 11.

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Step 5

Neaten one side seam edge from the sleeve to the hem on both front and back.

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Step 6

With right sides together, place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up. Pin down to hemline and out to sleeve hem.
Stitch down leaving a 3cm/1.2” gap 2cm/08” up from bottom edge on the side you just neatened. Press seam open. Top stitch around opening. This is where your tie will thread through.
Stitch the other side down completely then neaten seam.

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Step 7

Stitch together your front & back hem tie pieces. Press seams open. Fold in half and mark the centre.

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Step 8

Match the centre of the hem tie up with the centre back of cardi. With right side of tie facing inside of cardi, pin together until you reach the edge of each cardi front and stitch on.

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Step 9

Where the tie extends from the edge of cardi, fold the tie in half so that the right sides are facing. Pin together starting from edge of cardi to the end of the tie. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners then turn tie through to the right side. Repeat on other side.

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Step 10

Press remaining edge of tie inwards 1cm/0.39”. Pin, slightly overlapping the stitch line on the right side of cardi and top stitch in place.

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Step 11

Fold sleeve cuff piece in half width ways. Stitch edges together. Press seam allowance open. Pull the bottom of the seam allowance up to meet the top of the seam allowance, and thread the rest of the tube over itself so that all the seams are on the inside.
Now that your cuff is complete, you need to attach it to the bottom of your sleeve.
With right sides together put the cuff around the circumference of the sleeve opening with the raw edges together. Pin then stitch together. Neaten edges. Press seam allowance toward sleeve.

Voila!

Maya Cami Dress →

fusing

On one pair of your bust cup pieces, fuse the top edges with bust cup fusing. These will become the outer layer.

Step 1

Baste a stitch line at the top point of the triangle, 1cm/0.39” in from the edge on each of the front bust panels. This will act as a guide for the strap placement.

Step 2

Construct straps.

Stitch long ends of front strap pieces with right sides facing. Trim seam allowance in half. Attach a safety pin to one end of strap and thread through itself, until it comes out the other end through the right way. Press. Repeat for other strap.

Step 3

Pin straps to top points of bust cups on the right side of fabric. Stitch strap in place, starting and stopping where the strap meets the guideline on each side of strap. 

Step 4

With right sides facing pin the bust cup lining to the bust cup shell. Stitch together along edge of fusing. Trim seam allowance in half and clip at point and around underarm curve. Under stitch seam allowance toward the lining where you can. Turn through to the right side and press.

step 5

Using a long gathering stitch, stitch between the two notches along bottom edge of bust cups through both shell and lining, leaving long tails of thread.

Step 6

With right sides facing, pin the two gathering notches on the bust cup to the two notches on the top edge of front panel. Pin, matching the bust cup side seam with the front panel side seam, then pin out so that the center front edge of bust cup intersects with your centre front marking. Pull gathering stitch on bust panel taut so that it forms a nice even gather between the two gathering notches. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance downward toward front panel. Repeat on other side.

step 7

Hand stitch the two seam allowances together at the centre front of dress to hold in place.

Step 8

Press the side binding pieces in half lengthwise with right sides out and press to create a centre line. Open back out then press the two long edges of binding towards the centre line, but not quite touching, with right sides out.

Step 9

Unfold your binding piece. The fold line closest to one of the raw edges is going to be your first stitch line. Pin the binding along armhole on the wrong side of back panel. Stitch together along fold line of binding. Trim seam allowance in half then press up toward binding. Turn over to the right side of armhole and fold the folded edge of binding over top of your stitch line enclosing the raw edge. Pin in place all the way around armhole slightly overlapping your stitch line. Stitch together on the very edge of binding. Press. Repeat for other side.

Step 10

Fold and press your back binding piece as you did in step 8. Find the centre point of the length of your binding and place a pin to mark it. Now find the centre point of your back neckline and place a pin to mark it. Match up the two points and pin your binding along the first fold line, with the right side of binding facing the wrong side of back panel. Stitch together along fold line of binding. Apply binding with same method as step 9, this time also pinning together binding edges where it extends past neckline to become the strap loops. Stitch together all the way around on the very edge of binding. Press.

Step 11

With right sides facing, pin front and back side seams together, matching notches. Stitch. Neaten, then press seam allowances towards the back.

Step 12

Neaten hem edge. Turn up 1cm/0.4”, press and stitch hem in place.

Step 13

You may want to topstitch the side seam allowance toward the back of dress to hold in place.

Step 14

Thread the short strap through a ring. Turn the end of the short strap in 1cm toward the inside. Fold the short strap in half and pin in place on binding edge. Stitch and repeat on other side.

Step 15

Thread the front strap through the slider as shown in the first two images. Loop the front strap through the ring, then pull back through the centre bar of the slider. Fold the raw edge of strap under slightly and pin in place on each side. Try cami/dress on. Adjust the length of front straps, so that the hardware sits at the back. Once you’re happy with the length, edge stitch onto its self. 

Voilà!

The Juno Jacket →

Juno Jacket

a step-by-step tutorial

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Fusing

Fuse the hem, from notch to bottom edge of back panel & sleeves with 6cm strips of fusing. Fuse top edge of pocket pieces from notch up with pocket fusing pieces. Fuse back neck facing.

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step 1

Neaten top edge of pocket piece, then fold at notches toward wrong side of pocket. Press in place. Top stitch down. Repeat for other 3 pocket pieces.

Step 2

With right sides up, place one pocket piece over the other, lining up bottom edges and sides. Baste together about 5mm/0.2” from edge. Repeat for other side, making sure if reflects the first one.

Step 3

Place your pocket pieces onto the bottom edge of front panel, with the right sides of pockets facing the wrong side of front panel. Stitch together along bottom edge. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward front panel and under stitch. Press. Repeat for other front.

Step 4

Fold pockets over to the right side of fronts. Line the top points up with notches and baste in place along sides. Press.

Step 5

Pin front neck band along centre front edge of front panel, with the right side of neck band facing the wrong side of front panel. The band needs to over hang the bottom edge of front panel by 1cm / 0.39”. Stitch together. Open out and press seam allowance toward band.

Step 6

Press the open edge of neck band in 1 cm.

Step 7

Fold the neck band in half with right sides facing, slightly overlapping the pressed edge of band over the stitch line where the band meets front panel. Stitch together along bottom edge of band, lining up with hemline. Clip corner. Turn through to the right side. Press.

Step 8

Pin the pressed edge of neckband in place from the right side, slightly overlapping the seamline, evenly distributing any excess ease. Topstitch in place right along the edge. Press.

Step 9

Pin front and back shoulder seams together with right sides facing, lining up the centre front edge of neckband 1cm/0.39” in from edge of back neckline. Stitch together. Neaten seams.

Step 10

Press outer edge of back neck facing toward the wrong side with your iron.

Pin your back neck facing along back neckline with right sides facing, sandwiching your fronts between. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing.

Step 11

With wrong sides still out, pin shoulder edge of back neck facing over front neck band, lining up the edge of facing with edge of band. Stitch together along shoulder seam.

Step 12

Pull back neck facing over to the back and give it a really good press. Pin outer edge of facing to back panel and top stitch in place, lining up your stitch line with the topstitching on the front neck band. Press.

Step 13

With right sides facing, pin sleeves into armholes, matching up notches. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Press seam allowances toward sleeves.

Step 14

Neaten underarm/side seams on each side, the sleeve hems and the back hem edge.

Step 15

With right sides facing, pin together front and back underarm/side seam. Fold the back hem up at notches toward the front, sandwiching the front hem between. Stitch together starting at sleeve edge, stopping your stitch line at the top point of pocket and backtack. Restart your stitch line 4cm below and continue to the bottom edge of hem. Repeat on other side.

Step 16

Where you’ve left the gap in your side seam, press seam allowances open and top stitch around opening on all four sides. This is the gap for your waist tie to thread through.

Step 17

Press your back hem in to place, and topstitch down. 

Step 18

Fold sleeve hems up at notches toward the inside and stitch in place. Press.

Step 19

With right sides facing, pin waist tie pieces together at centre back. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. With right sides facing, fold your tie in half with long ends together. Pin along edges, then stitch, leaving a 10cm gap at centre back. Trim seam allowance in half and clip points. Turn through to the right side and use a point turner or knitting needle to get your corners nice and crisp. Press your tie really well then edge stitch the gap closed. 

voila!

Tide Top →

If you purchased the Tide pattern prior to February 2021, you will notice the construction method in this tutorial is slightly different. We found this was an easier and smoother way to put the back pleat together and have updated the instructions accordingly. You can absolutely use this method with the older pattern :-)

Step 1

Press the neck binding pieces in half lengthwise with right sides out and press to create a centre line. Open back out then press the two long edges of binding towards the centre line, but not quite touching, with right sides out.

Step 2

Unfold your binding piece. The fold line closest to one of the raw edges is going to be your first stitch line. Pin the binding around front neckline, on the wrong side of fabric. Stitch together along fold line of binding. Trim seam allowance in half then press up toward binding. Turn over to the right side of neckline. Fold the folded edge of binding over top of your stitch line enclosing the raw edge. Pin in place all the way around neckline slightly overlapping your stitch line. Stitch together on the very edge of binding. Press. Repeat for back neck.

Step 3

The back shoulder has 4 notches. With right sides facing, fold at first notch, lining up the edge of back neck binding with second notch. Pin. Baste in place right on the edge.

Step 4

With right sides facing, place the front panel on top, matching the neck edge of shoulder to the 4th notch and pin out to armhole.

Step 5

Fold the basted neckline pleat at notch 3 over to meet the pinned shoulder, lining up the edges of front and back neck binding. Stitch across, from fold at notch 3, across shoulder seam to edge of armhole. Neaten seam. Turn through to right side, folding pleat towards centre back and press seam allowances towards back. Repeat steps 3 - 5 on other side.

Step 6

Lay garment over sleeve with right sides facing. Pin in place starting from bottom of armhole upwards on both front and back, matching up notches. Evenly distribute any ease in the sleevehead while pinning. Stitch with sleeve on the underside, as the differential feed on your machine will help work in any ease. Neaten edge.  Repeat for opposite sleeve.
Neaten all remaining side seams, hem and sleeve edges. 

Step 7

Place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up. Pin down to side seam notch and out to sleeve hem.  Stitch together, stopping at side seam notch. Press seams open. Repeat on opposite side.

Step 8

Topstitch around side seam slits.

Step 9

 turn up front hem at notches and topstitch. For the back hem, do a small rolled hem, pressing around the curve and topstitch.

Step 10

Neaten sleeve hem edge then turn up 2.5cm/1” to the inside and topstitch in place.

Step 11

Slightly overlap the two back pleats and placing a button on top, handstitch in place through all layers.

Voilà

Nexus Blouse with cuff →

Fusing

Fuse front and back neck facing pieces (the front neck facing will either be the long or the short length depending on which length you are making. Fuse sleeve cuffs.

Step 1

Neaten side and hem edges of fronts and back.

Step 2

Pin fronts and back together at shoulder seams with right sides facing. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Press seam flat. Repeat on other side.

Step 3

Place shoulder seams of facing pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch. Press seams open. Neaten outside edge.

Step 4

Pin facing around neck opening and bottom edge of blouse with right sides together. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners and around curves. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Turn facing through to the inside of blouse. Press well.

Step 6

Pin facing in place lining up shoulder seams of facing with shoulder seams of blouse. Topstitch along outer edge of facing. Press.

Step 7

Fold hem edges up 1cm from notches. Press in place neatly around the curve. Stitch in place. 

Step 8

With right sides facing, align the side seams and stitch them together. Stitch down as far as the hems meet. Press seams open.

Step 9

Neaten underarm seams of sleeve piece. Fold sleeve in half, matching up underarm seams with right sides facing. Stitch together as far as single notch. Press seam allowance open. Top stitch around opening. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 10

With your machine on its longest stitch length, make a line of stitching along the sleeve hem, 5mm/0.2” from edge. Leave the threads long at each end and don’t backstitch at the start or finish. 

Step 11

Take two sleeve cuff pieces and press back the top seam allowance of one of them. Place the pieces together with right sides facing and stitch around edges leaving the top edge open. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves. Turn through to the right side and press edges. Repeat for other cuff.

Step 12

With sleeve inside out, pin the unfolded edge of cuff to the seam opening of sleeve with right side of cuff facing the wrong side of sleeve. Pull your gathering threads until the sleeve opening fits the cuff. Make sure your gathers are evenly spread, then stitch in place. Press seam allowance toward cuff.

Step 13

Turn sleeve through to the right side and pin pressed edge of cuff up slightly overlapping stitch line. Top stitch in place. Press.

Step 14

Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing, matching underarm seam and notches. Stitch around armhole. Neaten seams.

Step 15

Transfer markings from pattern piece for placement of buttons and buttonholes for front of blouse and sleeve cuffs with tailors chalk or pins. Sew buttonholes down the right side of the blouse front. The buttonholes should be vertical. Make sure they are centred between your top stitch line and the edge.

Sew buttonholes onto sleeve cuffs. The buttonholes should be horizontal.

Before sewing on your buttons, place the side with the buttonholes over top of the other side and use pins to mark where your buttons should be placed. Sew on your buttons. 

Voilà!

Sequence Blouse →

Fusing

Fuse round and wrap neck facing pieces.

Step 1

Stitch facing pieces together at shoulder seams. Press seams open. Neaten outer edges. Put aside until needed.

Step 2

Cut a 4cm/1.6” long piece of hat elastic. Loop it in half and stitch the open edges along centre front edge of left wrap section 1.5cm from top edge.

Step 3

Place both tie 1 pieces together with right sides facing and pin together all the way around, leaving the wide end open. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half and clip the corners. Turn through to the right side and give it a really good press. Repeat the same process with tie 2 pieces.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin open edge of tie 1 to right front bodice, matching up notches. There should be 1cm above and below tie. Stitch together.

Step 5

Pin open edge of tie 2 to the left front bodice at side seam, lining up the tie between notches on side seam. Stitch together.

Step 6

Neaten shoulder seams and hem edges.

Step 7

With right sides facing, pin together shoulder seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.

Step 8

Pin neck facing around neckline with right sides together, matching up notches. 

Stitch together all the way around neck facing and along hem. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Turn facing through to the inside and press.

Step 9

From the right side, secure the neck facing in place with a few stitches in the shoulder seam line.

Step 10

Pin front and back side seams together with right sides facing. Making sure your wrap sections are out of the way, stitch side seams together. Neaten Seams.

Step 11

Fold sleeve in half with right sides facing and stitch underarm seams together. Neaten seam. Repeat for other sleeve. 

Step 12

Neaten sleeve hem edge. Turn hem up 1cm to the inside and stitch in place. Press.

Step 13

Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing, matching underarm seam and notches. Stitch around armhole. Neaten seams.

Step 14

Fold the remainder of hem up at notches to the inside of blouse and top stitch in place.

Step 15

Stitch your button to the inside seam allowance at top notch.

Hand sew a small snap to the facing on both sides of the wrap - to find the perfect spot for how the blouse sits on your body, please try it on, cross over your front, close with the inside seam button and loop, and mark the best cross-over point with a pin or chalk. 

Voilà!

Ellipse Bag →

Step 1

With right sides together, match your strap facing piece with lining piece, lining up notches and stitch together. Repeat for other strap/lining piece. Press seam allowance towards lining.

Step 2

With right sides together, place your fused ‘zip facing’ piece onto one of your ‘strap facing’ pieces as marked on your pattern piece. Stitch along stitch line marking. Cut through the middle of stitching stopping about 1.3cm/0.5” from each end. Clip out to corners of stitch line being careful not to cut through your stitching. Turn facing through to the wrong side and press flat along stitch line.

Step 3

Neaten the edges all the way around pocket bags. With right side of zipper facing wrong side of pocket bag, stitch together along top edge. Fold zipper up and press.

Step 4

Place your zipper (with attached pocket bag) behind zipper opening in bag facing, and edge stitch in place at 5mm/0.2” all the way around zipper. 

Step 5

Fold bottom edge of pocket bag up to meet top edge of facing and stitch together. Stitch the sides of pocket bag closed. 

Step 6

With right sides facing, stitch the bag lining to one side of the outer shell at shoulder. Press seam open. Repeat for other side.

Step 7

Place one piece over the other with wrong sides together and baste together on inside edge.

Step 8

Place inside edge binding pieces together with right sides facing and stitch together at one of the short ends. Press seams open.

Step 9

Pin one of the long edges of binding strip right around inside edge of bag strap with right sides facing and stitch in place.

Step 10

Press the other long edge of binding in, then fold over to the other side of bag overlapping the stitch line slightly and top stitch in place. Press.

Step 11

Pull the outside layer of bag over lining side, matching up top edge of binding with corresponding notch and pin together. Your lining pieces should be sitting on the inside. Baste right around outside edge to hold together. Trim seam allowance in half.

Step 12

Place outer edge binding pieces together with right sides facing and stitch together at one of the short ends. Press seams open. Press one edge back 1cm/0.39”.

Step 13

Follow steps 9 - 10 to apply your outside edge binding starting with your pressed back edge, overlapping the open edge when you get to the other end. Turn over and top stitch.

Voilà!

Strata Pants →

Fusing

Fuse the pocket edge of both front leg pieces with pocket fusing piece. Fuse all 4 waistband pieces. Fuse fly shield and fly facing.

Step 1

Fold dart right sides together, matching notches. Pin and stitch in place. Press excess of dart toward center back. Repeat for other back piece.

Step 2

Place pocket bag A onto pant/short front with right sides facing and stitch along pocket edge. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Open out and under stitch seam allowance toward pocket bag. Press.

Step 3

Place Pocket Bag B on top of Pocket Bag A with right sides facing and stitch together around edge.  Neaten seam.

Step 4

Fold pocket bag in place, press then edge stitch in place at top and side to secure.
Repeat steps 2 - 4 for other side.

Step 5

Trim off 1cm flap from left trouser crotch seam (note: left side when wearing garment).
Neaten centre front seams of both front pieces.

Step 6

Fold Fly Shield in half lengthwise with right sides out and neaten the side and bottom edges. Press.
Place zipper right side up onto the neatened edge of fly shield, making sure zipper teeth start 1.5cm/0.6” down from top edge and baste in place.

Step 7

Fold back the centre front flap of right crotch seam and press in place. Place folded edge along the edge of zipper teeth. Top stitch in place with a zipper foot so you can get nice and close, stopping your stitch line when you reach the bottom of zipper teeth.

Step 8

Neaten curved edge of fused fly facing. Pin to left trouser front at centre front seam with right sides together. Stitch from top edge down to notch.  Fold bottom of fly facing up and clip with your scissors, where the stitching ends only on the trouser. Trim seam allowance in half then under stitch seam allowance toward fly facing. Turn fly facing over to the inside and press in place.

Step 9

Stitch crotch seam below fly zipper together. Clip a small notch into seam allowance below fly facing where stitching starts.

Step 10

Folding the right side of pant front and fly shield completely out of the way, fold the crotch seam allowance toward the left pant front and top stitch from crotch to the top edge, right along the edge.

Step 11

Place left side over right, overlapping the zipper by 1cm/0.39” at the top. Pin securely in place along centre front.

Step 12

Now that it’s pinned securely in place, from the inside, fold fly shield out of the way and stitch the other side of zipper to fly facing where it lies.

Step 13

Top stitch fly facing in place with a single row of stitching, making sure to keep fly shield out of the way. It may help to draw this line with chalk first.

Step 14

Fold fly shield back behind zipper and stitch a couple of bar tacks through all layers at bottom of curved stitch line (as illustrated) to secure in place.

Step 15

Pin back crotch seams together with right sides facing and stitch together with a double row of stitching. Neaten edges. Press seam allowance toward one side.

Step 16

Pin front and back trouser pieces together at side seams, aligning notches. Stitch together. Neaten edges. Press seam allowances towards back.
Repeat on other side.

Step 17

Pin front and back inside leg seams together with right sides facing, aligning notches. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press.

Step 18

Fold  short ends of belt loop strip to centre and press.
Fold in half again so that the folded edges are together and stitch in place. Press. Top stitch other edge to match. Cut your belt loop strip into 5 x 10cm/4” pieces.

Step 19

Pin belt loops in place at centre back, at space between back darts and the side seams, and at front pocket edges. Edge stitch in place.

Step 20

Trim off end of one pair of waistband pieces at trim line on your pattern piece.

Step 21

Place one long and one trimmed waistband piece together at centre back with right sides facing and pin together. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Do this for both waistband pieces.

Step 22

Pin your waistband pieces together with right sides facing aligning centre back seam and stitch along top edge. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve being careful not to cut through your stitch line. We’ll come back to press and under stitch this soon.

Step 23

Pin the waistband around top edge of waist opening on wrong side of pants, making sure the trimmed end of the waistband is positioned on the side of the fly facing, not the fly shield. Make sure that the waistband overlaps the fly opening by 1cm/0.39” on each side. Stitch in place. Press seam allowances up toward waistband.

Step 24

Fold open edge of waistband up by 1cm/0.39” and press. Press the seam allowance that you created in step 22 away from your 1cm edge. Under stitch.

Step 25

Fold your waistband in half with wrong sides out at the seam line between waistband and waistband facing. Stitch edges together to be in line with edge of fly facing and outer edge of fly shield. Clip top corners of seam allowance then turn through to the right side. Press well.

Step 26

Pin remainder of waistband down so that the folded edge slightly overlaps the stitch line. Top stitch down from the right side all the way around waistband. Press.

Step 27

Press open edges of belt loops under 1cm and top stitch along top edge of waistband. Top stitch bottom edge of belt loop down where it folds to. Press

Step 28

Apply your domes/snaps onto your waistband according to package instructions. Alternatively you could sew on two sets of trouser hooks.

Step 29

Neaten hem edges. Fold hems up to desired length, pin in place and stitch.

Voilà!

Fjord Cardi →

Step 1

Fuse top edge of pocket on wrong side above notches. Neaten top edge then fold down at notches. Press. Place pocket onto side panel lining up top pocket edges with notches. Edge stitch in place. Repeat for other side.

Step 2

Pin centre front panel to side panel with right sides facing. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward centre front. Repeat for other front.

Step 3

Pin back panel to other side of side panel with right sides facing. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward back. Repeat for other side.

Step 4

Fold short ends of hem band in half with right sides out. Pin the open ends to bottom edge of cardi, stretching it to fit. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press.

Step 5

Fold sleeve in half lining up underarm seams with right sides facing. Stitch. Neaten seam. Turn through to right side and press.

Step 6

Pin sleeve to cardi with right sides facing. Line up the seam on sleeve with back seam of side panel, and match notch with the front seam of side panel. Stitch in place. Neaten seam. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 7

Pin neck band pieces together on the wide ends with right sides facing. Stitch. Press seam allowance open.

Step 8

Pin neckband all the way around neckline of cardi on the wrong side, leaving bottom edge of neckband overhanging  the hem band by 1cm/0.39”. Line up the centre back seam of neckband with centre back point of cardi and match notches. Stitch. Press seam allowance toward neckband.
Press the other edge of neckband in 1cm/0.39” toward the wrong side all the way around. 

Step 9

Fold bottom edge of neckband in half with wrong sides out so that the folded edge lines up with the seam line. Stitch edges together to be in line with edge of hem band. Clip corners then turn through to the right side. Press well. Repeat on other side.

Step 10

Pin the folded edge of neckband in place from the right side, slightly overlapping the seam line.
Top stitch in place right along the edge.

Step 11

Fold sleeve cuff piece in half width ways. Stitch edges together. Press seam allowance open. Pull the bottom of the seam allowance up to meet the top of the seam allowance, and thread the rest of the tube over itself so that all the seams are on the inside.

Now that your cuff is complete, you need to attach it to the bottom of your sleeve.

With right sides together put the cuff around the circumference of the sleeve opening with the raw edges together. Pin then stitch together. Neaten edges.

Voilà!

Luna Jacket - Unlined →

Fusing & Prep

Cut 4cm/1.6” wide strips of fusing and fuse the hemline of your front and back pieces, sleeves, and the top edge of pockets. Neaten all edges of sleeve and pocket pieces. Neaten the side seams and hems of your front and back jacket pieces.

Step 1

Fold down the top edge of pocket from notches, so that right sides are facing and stitch down along side seams. Clip corners and turn through to right side. Press.
Press remaining edges and bottom corners in 1cm/0.39”.

Step 2

On the wrong side of your cut out pieces, mark in pocket placement from your front pattern piece.

Place pocket on front piece, matching it with pocket placement markings. Top-stitch around sides and bottom edges, sewing a small triangle in each top corner for added strength. Repeat on other side.

Step 3

Stitch together the long ends of ties with right sides facing. Trim seam allowance in half. Attach a safety pin to one end of strap and thread through itself until it comes out the other end through the right way. Press. Turn ends inside themselves slightly and top-stitch down.

Step 4

Edge-stitch the short ties to the notches at centre front of each front piece, and the long ties to the waist notch of the side seam.

Step 5

With right sides facing, pin front pieces to back piece at the shoulder seams. 

Stitch and neaten seams. Press seam allowance toward back.

Step 6

Pin the side seams of the front and back together, Starting from notch A.

Stitch down to notch C on the side seam. Stitch together and press seam allowances open.

Step 7

Top-stitch around side seam slits.

Step 8

With right sides facing, pin the sleeve edges together from armhole to sleeve hem. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.

Step 9

With right sides facing, place the sleeve inside the jacket and match armhole edges. Place a pin where the sleeve seam meets the jacket side seam. Pin around armhole, matching shoulder seam with sleeve centre notch. Start stitching from the underarm seam and stitch around armhole. Press. Repeat for other side.

Step 10

Fold hem and sleeve edges up at notches and top-stitch in place. Press

Step 11

With right sides facing, place the neckband pieces together at short ends, on one side only. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. 

Pin neckband all the way around neckline of jacket, with the right side of neckband facing the wrong side of jacket. The bottom edge of neckband should overhang the hem by 1cm/0.39”. Line up the centre back seam of neckband with centre back point of jacket and match notches. Stitch. Press seam allowance toward neckband.

Step 12

Press the other edge of neckband in 1cm/0.39” toward the wrong side all the way around. 

Step 13

Fold bottom edge of neckband in half with wrong sides out, so that the folded edge lines up with the seam-line. Stitch edges together to be in line with edge of hem. Clip corners then turn through to the right side. Press well.

Step 14

Pin the folded edge of neckband in place from the right side, slightly overlapping the seam-line. Top-stitch in place right along the edge.

Voilà!

Array Top →

Step 1

Neaten centre back seams of both back pieces. Pin together with right sides facing. Stitch. Press seam allowance open.

Step 2

Pin front and back shoulder seams together with right sides facing. Stitch. Neaten seam edges. Press seam allowances toward back.

Step 3

Press one end of binding strip toward wrong side by 1cm. With right sides facing, line up the folded edge of binding with the centre back seam of top/dress. Pin the binding around neckline adding a bit of tension to the binding without stretching it out. When you get to the end, overlap over the folded edge and stitch in place with a 5mm seam allowance. Clip seam allowance being careful not to cut through your stitch line.

Step 4

Press seam allowance toward binding. Understitch the seam allowance to the binding. Pull binding through to the inside of neckline and press. Fold the raw edge of binding under. Pin in place and stitch along the edge of the binding. Press.

Step 5

Place the short end of Tie A and Tie B together with right sides facing aligning notch. Stitch. Press seam open. Repeat for the 3 other tie sections. Place 2 completed tie pieces together with right sides facing and pin together all the way around, leaving the short straight edge open. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip the point at end. Turn through to the right side and give all edges a really good press. Repeat for other tie. 

Step 6

Pin your waist ties to side seams, matching up notches. Stitch in place with a 5mm seam allowance.

Step 7

With right sides facing, pin together the side seams. If you have attached ties, these will be sandwiched between the two layers. Stitch. Neaten seam edges. Press seam allowances toward back.

Step 8

Fold sleeve in half with right sides facing. Stitch underarm seams together. Neaten seam. Repeat for other sleeve.

Step 9

Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing, matching armhole seam and notch with shoulder seam. Stitch around armhole. Neaten seams.

Step 10

Neaten sleeve and hem edges. 

Sleeves: From the inside of garment, pin the sleeve edges up 1.5cm/½”. Stitch in place leaving a 2.5cm/1” gap to thread elastic. If you’re not elasticating the hem, stitch all the way around without leaving a gap.

Hems: From the inside of garment, pin hem edges 1.5cm/½” for elasticated hem, or 3cm/1.2” for straight hem. Stitch in place leaving a 2.5cm/1” gap to thread elastic. If you’re not elasticating the hem, stitch all the way around without leaving a gap.

Step 11

Cut your elastic according to the chart in your instructions.

Attach a small safety pin to one edge of your elastic and pin the other end to the seam allowance, right next to the hem opening. Thread safety pinned edge through the gap, threading through until it returns out the same hole.

Remove pinned edge of elastic from seam allowance and remove safety pin from the other end. Overlap the two open ends of elastic and safety pin them together. Try the top/dress on to check the fit of elastic. Adjust accordingly then stitch elastic together securely. Stretch out sleeve casings until the stitched part of elastic is sitting within the casing, then stitch closed.

Voilà!

Meridian Dress →

Fusing & Facings

Fuse front and back neck facing pieces. Stitch together at shoulder seams. Press seams open. Neaten outer & bottom edges. Put aside until needed.

Step 1

Fold long edges of tie on front bodice together with right sides facing starting from notches. Stitch together.

Step 2

At notch, clip through seam allowance to meet stitch line. Be careful not to clip through your stitching. Press seam open. At end of tie, line up centre of seam allowance with notch. Stitch both layers together. Clip corners then pull tie through to the right side. 

Step 3

Neaten centre front seam of both fronts. Stitch together with right sides facing. Press seam open.

Step 4

Fold both front and back pleats into place. Baste in place 5mm/0.2” from top edge of skirt.

Step 5

Folding ties out of the way, place the front bodice over front skirt at waist seam with right sides facing. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward bodice.

Step 6

Place the back bodice pieces over back skirt pieces at waist seams with right sides facing. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Press seam allowance toward bodice.

Step 7

Neaten both centre back seams. Place one side of your invisible zipper onto the left neatened seam with the top of zipper at notch. Fold the top of zipper tape toward centre back seam and stitch in place. Repeat on other side with other side of zipper. Stitch backs together below zipper with right sides facing. Press seam open.

Step 8

Place front and back dress panels together at shoulder seams with right sides facing. Stitch. Neaten seams. Press seam allowances toward the back.

Step 9

1.Cut a small piece of fabric approximately 3cm x 6cm on the bias. 2. Fold edges to centre, press. 3. Fold in half again and stitch in place. Press. 4. Fold in half ready to stitch onto garment.

Place raw edges of loop on the right side of centre back seam 1.5cm from top edge. Stitch in place

Step 10

With right sides together, pin neck facing around neckline of dress and down centre back seam, along invisible zipper tape. Stitch in place. (You may need to use a zipper foot along zip edge). Trim seam allowance and clip corners. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Turn facing through to the inside and press edges.

Step 11

Pin facing in place and top stitch down along edge of facing. Press. Hand sew a button onto opposite side to loop.

Step 12

Pin side seams together making sure to line up waist seam of front and back. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Press.

Step 13

Fold sleeve in half and stitch underarm seams together. Neaten seam. With your machine on its longest stitch length, make a line of stitching along the sleeve cap - between the front and back armhole notches - leave the threads long at each end and don’t backstitch at start or finish. 

Step 14

Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing matching armhole seam and notches. Gather excess fabric between notches by pulling on thread tails. Stitch around armhole. Neaten seams.

Step 15

Neaten both sleeve and hem edges. Turn up 2.5cm/1”, pin, then stitch in place.  Give your dress a good press.

Voilà!

Sequence Dress →

Fusing

Fuse round and wrap neck facing pieces. 

Step 1

Stitch facing pieces together at shoulder seams. Press seams open. Neaten outer edges. Put aside until needed.

Step 2

Cut a 4cm/1.6” long piece of hat elastic. Loop it in half and stitch the open edges along centre front edge of left wrap section 1.5cm from top edge.

Step 3

Fold tie piece in half lengthwise with right sides facing. Stitch together along long edge and one end. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners. Turn through to the right side (using a knitting needle or loop turner) and press. Repeat for other tie.

Step 4

With right sides facing, pin open end of one of the ties to right front bodice 1.5cm down from top edge. Pin open end of the other tie piece to the left front bodice at side seam edge, lining up the top of tie with top notch on side seam. Stitch together.

Step 5

Neaten shoulder seams, wrap edges and hems.

Step 6

With right sides facing, pin together shoulder seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.

Step 7

Pin neck facing around neckline with right sides together, matching up notches. Stitch together all the way around neck facing and along wrap edge. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Turn facing through to the inside and press.

Step 8

From the right side, secure the neck facing in place with a few stitches in the shoulder seam line.

Step 9

Pin front and back side seams together with right sides facing. Making sure your wrap sections are out of the way, stitch side seams together. Neaten Seams.

Step 10

Fold sleeve in half with right sides facing and stitch underarm seams together. Neaten seam. Repeat for other sleeve. 

Step 11

Neaten sleeve hem edge. Turn hem up 1cm to the inside and stitch in place. Press.

Step 12

Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing, matching underarm seam and notches. Stitch around armhole. Neaten seams.

Step 13

Fold front hem allowance up at notches with right sides facing. Stitch. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners. Turn through to the right side.

Step 14

Pin the remainder of front wrap edges to the inside of dress, and fold the remainder of hem up at notches. Top stitch in place. 

Step 15

Stitch your button to the inside seam allowance at top notch.

Hand sew a small snap to the facing on both sides of the wrap - to find the perfect spot for how the blouse sits on your body, please try it on, cross over your front, close with the inside seam button and loop, and mark the best cross-over point with a pin or chalk. 

Voilà!

Soma - Bra Insert

A swimsuit is one of the most gratifying garments you can make ... and surprisingly easy. Best of all, you get a unique custom-made swimsuit!

As part of that perfect fit, you might want some extra bust support and a bra insert is the perfect way to achieve that lift. In this tutorial, we'll show you how to draft your own Soma bra insert pattern and then sew it all together into your swimsuit.

Before starting, you'll also a couple of extra sewing supplies.

You Will Need

Additional to your pattern requirements, you'll also need:

• 60cm of swimwear elastic

• 50cm/20" of 2.5cm /1" wide elastic

• Swimsuit lining fabric

• 40cm/16" of bra strapping

Draft Your Bra-Insert Pattern Piece

First up, trace the "one piece top section" of the Soma Swimsuit.

Draw a line straight up from the bottom centre notch. The length doesn't matter too much, as long as it's more than 8cm.

On the side seam, place a mark 8cm up from the bottom corner.

From your marking on the side seam, draw a line parallel to the bottom edge, stopping at your vertical line.

Extend your horizontal line beyond your vertical line by 1cm.

From your extended point, draw a line upwards connecting to the seam line on the shoulder as shown.

The triangular portion which includes the shoulder, arm curve and some of the side seam will be your new pattern piece. Cut along your new lines as shown.

Sew Your Soma Bra-Insert 

Using your new pattern piece, cut 2 pairs of lining pieces for double thickness. That's 4 pieces in total with 2 for each side.

With wrong sides together, pin and stitch two layers together and repeat for the other side. Neaten edges.

Measure your pattern piece from the shortest edge (shoulder), down to the longest edge (under bust). This is your centre front. Cut two strips of elastic which are 1cm shorter than that measurement. Pin in place along the edge and stitch in place with a zig zag stitch, gently stretching the elastic to fit.

Fold the elastic over and pin in place. Stitch with a zig zag stitch. When repeating for the other side, be sure to fold the elastic in the opposite direction, so that you end up with two mirroring pieces.

Cut a piece of 2.5cm/1" wide elastic long enough to span the width of both cups. 

Place your cup pieces so that the bottom edge sits at the centre of the width of the elastic.

Pin your cup pieces to the elastic, gently stretching elastic to fit, taking care that the centre corners meet in the middle.

Stitch in place with a wide short zig zag stitch for maximum stretch.

Place bra insert over front swimsuit pieces with right sides facing up for both. Pin together at top edge making sure the swimsuit pieces overhang bra insert by 1cm at centre front.

Fold bra insert up out of the way.

Attach fold over elastic to the centre front edges of swimsuit as per your Soma instructions.

Overlap waist edges of swimsuit matching up the centre notch, then stitch in place.

Fold bra insert to the inside of swimsuit and pin together around armhole and side edges. Stitch with a zig zag stitch.

Attach your fold over elastic as per your instructions.

You might want to topstitch the top edges between fold over elastic to keep the seam sitting nice and flat.

Attach the bra strapping down the side, following the usual Soma instructions (step 14).

Fold the side elastic over one time to the wrong side and stitch (step 17). Repeat for other side.

Sew the lower portion according to pattern instructions.

Pin lower half to top, matching side seams (steps 18-20).

Sew the rings onto your straps (steps 21-22).

Cut three strips of equal lengths (step 25). The Soma usually has two straps, but we'll use an extra one with this bra insert.

Try your swimsuit on and get someone to help pin the straps into place, so that you know how long to make them (step 26). Your third strap will go horizontally across the back, starting and finishing at the ends of the 2.5cm/1" wide under-bust elastic.

Stitch in place and voila! I bet you look smokin'. Time to find some water, sun and a good magazine. Enjoy! x