Remy Shirt - Kids
a step-by-step tutorial
Fusing
On the wrong side of fabric, fuse one of your collar stand pieces, your upper collar and two cuff pieces.
With the fusing strips you cut, fuse the centre front edge of each shirt front up to the first notch and the top edges of patch pockets from notches upward.
Step 1
Neaten the top edge of pocket, then fold down (at notches) so that right sides are facing and stitch down along side seams.
Clip corners and turn through to right side. Press.
Press remaining edges in 1cm/3⁄4”. Repeat for other pocket.
Step 2
Pin pocket flap pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch around the three edges as illustrated. Clip corners and trim seam allowance in half. Turn through to the right side, getting your points nice and crisp. Press well. Neaten top open edge. Repeat for other pocket flap.
Step 3
Transfer pocket placement marking from your pattern piece to the right side of front shirt with tailors chalk or pins.
Patch Pocket:
Align patch pocket, right side up, with markings and pin in place. Edge stitch pocket in place along side and bottom edges, creating a small triangle of stitching at each top edge for reinforcement.
Pocket Flap:
Line up the neatened edge of pocket flap with top pocket marking points. The right side of pocket flap should be facing the right side of shirt front. Stitch together along neatened edge with a 5mm/0.19” seam allowance. Press pocket flap down toward pocket and stitch in place along top edge of flap.
Repeat for other side.
Step 4
Fold the front placket towards the wrong side of fabric at the edge of fusing piece. Press. Fold over again the same width and press in place. Repeat for other front.
Step 5
Top stitch down along edge of placket to secure. Press. Repeat for other front.
Step 6
Fold your back piece in half with right sides facing. Stitch down a couple of stitches where the two notches meet. Open out and evenly distribute pleat on either side of stitchline. Stitch in place along top edge to secure with a 5mm/0.19” seam allowance.
Step 7
Sandwich back section of shirt between bottom edge of yoke pieces, with right sides together. Pin then stitch together through all three layers. Press yoke panels up away from back panel.
Step 8
Press the shoulder seams of the outer layer of back yoke back by 0.8cm/0.31”.
Step 9
Holding the outer yoke panel out of the way, pin the right side of inside yoke to wrong side of front panel at shoulder seam. Stitch together. Press seam allowance toward yoke. Repeat for opposite side.
Step 10
Working from the right side, place the pressed edge of yoke shoulder seam along the seam you just completed, slightly overlapping it and top stitch in place, enclosing the seam. Press. Repeat for opposite side.
Step 11
Open out sleeve at binding slit and place over sleeve binding piece with both right sides up. Stitch together, starting with a 0.75cm/0.29” seam allowance at each end stitching to a 2mm / 0.07” seam allowance at the centre point. Press seam allowance toward binding.
Step 12
Fold the other long edge of binding piece toward the wrong side 0.75cm/0.29” to meet the other edge. Press. Fold over again so that overlaps the stitch line and topstitch in place. Press.
Step 13
From the wrong side of sleeve, fold binding in half, with right sides of sleeve facing and stitch top point of binding together on a 45 degree angle starting from sleeve side of binding.
Step 14
Open sleeve out and press binding placket toward the wider section of sleeve. Baste binding in place along hem. Repeat for opposite sleeve.
Step 15
Fold pleat into place, matching up notches with the pleat excess folded toward placket opening. Stitch together along hem to hold in place. Repeat for opposite sleeve.
Step 16
Lay body section over sleeve with right sides together and pin in place, starting from bottom of armhole upwards on both front and back matching up notches. The centre notch on sleeve head lines up with shoulder seam of yoke. Evenly distribute any ease in the sleeve head while pinning. Stitch with the sleeve on the underside. Neaten edge. Repeat for opposite sleeve.
Step 17
Place a pin where front and back underarm seams meet up and pin down to hemline and out to sleeve hem. Stitch together then neaten seam. Press. Repeat on opposite side.
Step 18
For each sleeve, you have two cuff pieces, one fused, one not fused. Fold the top edge of your fused cuff piece down toward the wrong side by 0.8cm/0.31”. Press in place. Make sure that it is accurately 0.8cm/0.31” all the way along.
Step 19
Place your unfused cuff piece underneath right side up, matching up the bottom edges. Pin together along side and bottom edges. Stitch with the fused side on top. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curves. Turn through to the right side and give it a good press.
Step 20
With sleeve inside out, pin the open edge of cuff to the seam opening of sleeve, with right side of cuff facing the wrong side of sleeve. Stitch in place. Press seam allowance up so that it sits inside the cuff.
Step 21
Turn sleeve through to the right side and pin pressed edge of cuff up slightly overlapping stitch line. Top stitch in place. Press. Repeat the last four steps for opposite sleeve.
Step 22
Pin upper collar and under collar pieces together with right sides facing.
Stitch around side and top edges as illustrated. Trim seam allowance in half and clip corners, being careful not to clip through your stitches.
Under stitch seam allowance toward under collar where you can.
Turn through to the right side and get your corners nice and sharp with a point turner. Press, holding the bottom edges of upper collar and under collar together. The stitch line should roll toward the under collar. Baste open edges together.
Step 23
Working with your fused collar stand piece, stitch 0.8cm/0.31” from bottom edge to form a guide line. Fold the bottom edge up at stitchline toward the wrong side. Press in place.
Step 24
Lay your unfused collar stand piece right side up. Place the raw edge of your collar piece, upper collar/right side up, onto the top edge of collar stand, lining up the two ends of collar with notches on collar stand and pin in place. Place your fused collar stand piece over the top sandwiching collar between and pin securely together through all layers.
Step 25
Stitch together along top edge. Trim seam allowance in half. Turn through to the right side and give it a good press.
Step 26
With your shirt right side up, place the raw edge of collar stand along raw edge of neckline. Pin together, matching up notches. Stitch together with an accurate 1cm/0.39” seam allowance. Press seam allowance upward into collar stand.
Step 27
Pin the collar stand closed, lining up the folded edge of collar stand, slightly overlapping the stitch line. Stitch together along edge. Press.
Step 28
Stitch a line 5mm from the hem edge of shirt.
With your iron, press the hem up along stitch line toward the wrong side.
Step 29
Fold up again another 5mm and press well. Top stitch in place. Press.
Step 30
Transfer button / buttonhole markings from pattern piece with tailors chalk or pins. Sew buttonholes down one side of the shirt front. The buttonholes should be vertical except for on the collar stand which should be horizontal. Make sure they are centred between your top stitch line and the edge.
Sew buttonholes onto sleeve cuffs. The buttonholes should be horizontal.
Before sewing on your buttons, place the side with the buttonholes over top of the other side and use pins to mark where your buttons should be placed. Sew on your buttons.
Alternatively you could use domes in the place of buttons/ buttonholes as we have for one of our samples. If so, using the same button placement provided, follow the directions that come with the domes for how to insert them.
You did it!