The Axis Dress
a step by step tutorial
Our timeless ode to Audrey Hepburn features a vintage-inspired straight neckline and waist ties that can be wrapped around to tie at the front, or fastened at the back to form a plunging back. You can choose between a figure-hugging pencil skirt with front split and an equally classic and flattering A-line silhouette. With the option to make either the entire dress or just the skirt from this pattern, you'll have plenty of outfits for your own Breakfast at Tiffany's.
Pattern Adjustments
Step 1
DRESS: Fuse front facing (piece 5) and both back waistband pieces (piece 7).
Step 2
Pin back darts in place. Stitch. Press darts toward side seams.
Step 3
Place back waistband onto back skirt with right sides facing, lining up straight short end of waistband with centre back of skirt. Stitch together. Press seam allowance toward waistband. Neaten centre back seam of skirt and top edge of waistband.
Step 4
Place your invisible zipper so that the top of the zipper teeth line up with the centre point of waistband (the notch). Stitch one side of invisible zipper to the left neatened seam and the other side of zipper onto right neatened seam.
* for a step by step photographic tutorial on how to insert an invisible zipper click HERE
Step 5
Stitch centre back seam together below zipper. Press seam open, and tack bottom of zipper to seam allowance (this will help keep zipper sitting flat).
Step 6
Fold top half of waistband over the top of zipper with right sides facing and stitch edges of waistband to zipper tape. Clip corners, then turn through to the right side.
Step 7
Turn waistband through right sides out. From the right side of waistband, pin through the seam where waistband meets skirt, catching the underside of waistband below. Stitch in the ditch on both sides. Press.
Step 8
Neaten centre front seams of both skirt panels. Pin front skirts together along centre front seam with right sides facing.
SKIRT WITH SPLIT: Stitch from top edge down as far as notch.
A-LINE SKIRT: Stitch from top edge all the way down to hem. Press seams open.
Step 9
Pin bust darts in place. Stitch. Press darts toward side seams.
Step 10
Place back pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch together all the way around, leaving the side seams open.
At the top notch on one side seam, stitch in 1.2cm / 1/2”, pivot your needle again and stitch out to the side seam. Clip into corners. Trim seam allowance in half all the way around back pieces, clip corners and around curves.
Turn through to the right side. Press well.
Step 11
Place finished back pieces on to front bodice with right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams of back pieces to top edge of front bodice 1.2cm / 1/2” from the sides. Stitch in place with a 5mm / 1/4” seam allowance.
Step 12
Place your front facing over the top sandwiching the backs between. Stitch together around armholes and top edge. Trim seam allowance in half, clip corners and around curves, then under stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Neaten bottom edge of facing. Turn through to the right side and press.
Step 13
Place front bodice onto front skirt at waist seam with right sides facing. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward skirt.
Step 14
Pin front and back bodice side seams together with right sides facing. Fold edges of front bodice facing over the top and pin securely in place. Stitch together making sure you don’t stitch your side opening shut.
Step 15
Press your side seam toward front bodice and topstitch front edge of side seam opening.
Step 16
Place back skirt over the top, lining up waist seam of front bodice with the seam line between back skirt and waistband. Pin all layers together, keeping your ties out of the way. Stitch. Neaten side seams. Turn dress through to the right side.
Step 17
(SKIRT WITH SPLIT ONLY)
Neaten hem edges. Fold the hem allowance up with right sides facing at the centre front opening. Stitch together along centre front. Clip corners and turn back through to the right side. Press the remainder of centre front seam allowance back toward the inside and top stitch in place around opening. Press. Fold remaining hem allowance up at notches and pin in place. Stitch all the way around. Press. Voilà.