Pattern Adjustments
Step 1
On the wrong side of front triangle piece, mark in your stitch line at the top of triangle, on both edges with tailors chalk. The seam allowance is 1cm/0.39”. Where these lines intersect is where you will start your stitch line.
Your piece should look like this.
Step 2
Mark in the stitch line on the wrong side of your front body piece where the v-neck meets the front triangle. Do the same on the other front piece.
It should look something like this.
Step 3
Place your front triangle piece onto your front body piece with right sides facing. Pin together matching the marked point of triangle to the marked point of body piece. Also pin together at notch and bottom edge of triangle.
Insert your needle into the marked point on triangle piece, making sure it also intersects the marked point on front body piece. This is your stitch line start point. Stitch down to bottom edge of triangle.
Neaten seam allowance (this can be done with an overlocker or zig zag stitch). Press seam allowance toward triangle.
Step 4
Pin side A of upper triangle piece to body piece with right sides facing, lining up top of triangle with notch. Stitch.
Step 5
Clip seam allowance at the top of triangle being careful not to cut through your stitching. Trim off excess 1cm from back neckline. Neaten seam of upper triangle, then press outwards, towards body section.
Step 6
Mark in your 1cm/0.39” stitch line where it intersects the bottom point of upper triangle stitch line.
Step 7
Pin front body pieces together with right sides facing, lining up notches.
TRIANGLE INTERSECTION
Step 8
Insert a needle and thread though the marked intersecting points from the lower triangle and the upper triangle on the body pieces and do a small basting stitch to hold the point in place. Now stitch the seam from top edge of upper triangle down to the hemline making sure you stitch directly on top of the basting stitch.
Step 9
Clip seam allowance at the top of stitchline being careful not to cut through your stitching.
Trim off excess 1cm from back neckline. Neaten seam of upper/lower triangle, then press the seam so that the upper triangle is outwards toward body section (The lower triangle will be pressed inwards toward triangle).
Step 10
Neaten both centre back seams from top to bottom.
Step 11
With right sides facing, pin together from notch to hem. Stitch. Press seam open all the way to the top neck edge, keeping the 1cm/0.39” fold back above the stitch line.
Step 12
Topstitch around open part of back seam allowance.
NECK BINDING
Step 13
1. Pin neck binding pieces together at a right angle with right sides facing. Stitch together with a 5mm seam allowance. 2. Press seam open. 3. Press the binding in half lengthwise with right sides out and press to create a centre line. 4. Open back out then Press the two long edges of binding towards the centre line, but not quite touching, with right sides out. 5. Press the two short ends of binding in. 6. Fold in half again lengthwise, enclosing your raw edges and press in place.
Step 14
Unfold your binding piece. The foldline closest to one of the raw edges is going to be your first stitchline. Find the centre point of the length of your binding piece and place a pin to mark it. Now find the centre point of your front neckline and place a pin to mark it. Match up the two points and pin your binding along that first foldline around the wrong side of neckline. Stitch together along foldline of binding. Trim seam allowance in half then press up toward binding.
Step 15
Turn over to the right side of neckline and fold the folded edge of binding over top of your stitchline enclosing the raw edge.
Pin in place all the way around neckline slightly overlapping your stitchline. Pin together binding edges where it extends past neckline to become ties.
Stitch together all the way around on the very edge of binding. Press.
Step 16
With right sides facing, pin together underarm/side seams. Stitch. Neaten seams.
Step 17
Neaten sleeve and hem edges then fold up at notches toward the wrong side and pin in place. Stitch. Press. Voila!
