Fusing

Fuse the pocket edge of both front leg pieces with pocket fusing piece. Fuse all 4 waistband pieces. Fuse fly shield and fly facing.

Step 1

Fold dart right sides together, matching notches. Pin and stitch in place. Press excess of dart toward center back. Repeat for other back piece.

Step 2

Place pocket bag A onto pant/short front with right sides facing and stitch along pocket edge. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Open out and under stitch seam allowance toward pocket bag. Press.

Step 3

Place Pocket Bag B on top of Pocket Bag A with right sides facing and stitch together around edge. Neaten seam.

Step 4

Fold pocket bag in place, press then edge stitch in place at top and side to secure.
Repeat steps 2 - 4 for other side.

Step 5

Trim off 1cm flap from left trouser crotch seam (note: left side when wearing garment).
Neaten centre front seams of both front pieces.

Step 6

Fold Fly Shield in half lengthwise with right sides out and neaten the side and bottom edges. Press.
Place zipper right side up onto the neatened edge of fly shield, making sure zipper teeth start 1.5cm/0.6” down from top edge and baste in place.

Step 7

Fold back the centre front flap of right crotch seam and press in place. Place folded edge along the edge of zipper teeth. Top stitch in place with a zipper foot so you can get nice and close, stopping your stitch line when you reach the bottom of zipper teeth.

Step 8

Neaten curved edge of fused fly facing. Pin to left trouser front at centre front seam with right sides together. Stitch from top edge down to notch. Fold bottom of fly facing up and clip with your scissors, where the stitching ends only on the trouser. Trim seam allowance in half then under stitch seam allowance toward fly facing. Turn fly facing over to the inside and press in place.

Step 9

Stitch crotch seam below fly zipper together. Clip a small notch into seam allowance below fly facing where stitching starts.

Step 10

Folding the right side of pant front and fly shield completely out of the way, fold the crotch seam allowance toward the left pant front and top stitch from crotch to the top edge, right along the edge.

Step 11

Place left side over right, overlapping the zipper by 1cm/0.39” at the top. Pin securely in place along centre front.

Step 12

Now that it’s pinned securely in place, from the inside, fold fly shield out of the way and stitch the other side of zipper to fly facing where it lies.

Step 13

Top stitch fly facing in place with a single row of stitching, making sure to keep fly shield out of the way. It may help to draw this line with chalk first.

Step 14

Fold fly shield back behind zipper and stitch a couple of bar tacks through all layers at bottom of curved stitch line (as illustrated) to secure in place.

Step 15

Pin back crotch seams together with right sides facing and stitch together with a double row of stitching. Neaten edges. Press seam allowance toward one side.

Step 16

Pin front and back trouser pieces together at side seams, aligning notches. Stitch together. Neaten edges. Press seam allowances towards back.
Repeat on other side.

Step 17

Pin front and back inside leg seams together with right sides facing, aligning notches. Stitch. Neaten seam. Press.

Step 18

Fold short ends of belt loop strip to centre and press.
Fold in half again so that the folded edges are together and stitch in place. Press. Top stitch other edge to match. Cut your belt loop strip into 5 x 10cm/4” pieces.

Step 19

Pin belt loops in place at centre back, at space between back darts and the side seams, and at front pocket edges. Edge stitch in place.

Step 20

Trim off end of one pair of waistband pieces at trim line on your pattern piece.

Step 21

Place one long and one trimmed waistband piece together at centre back with right sides facing and pin together. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. Do this for both waistband pieces.

Step 22

Pin your waistband pieces together with right sides facing aligning centre back seam and stitch along top edge. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve being careful not to cut through your stitch line. We’ll come back to press and under stitch this soon.