Pattern Hack - Nova Coat with Zip & Elasticated Cuffs
a step-by-step tutorial
Pattern Adjustments:
For the addition of the zip, changes need to be made to your Upper front and Lower front pattern pieces to create a new front facing pattern.
Also, a sleeve cuff pattern needs to be made to elasticate the sleeves. The rest of the pattern pieces can be used as usual.
Step 1
Mark in the centre front ‘foldline’ on your upper front and lower front pattern pieces.
On your Upper Front pattern piece do this by; starting at the centre front notch at the neck edge, draw a straight line, parallel to the grainline down to the bottom edge of the pattern piece. (where the lower front attaches.)
As seen here marked in red.
Step 2
Cut down the centre front line on both Upper and Lower front pattern pieces. These cut off pieces will become your front facing.
Join the Upper front ‘facing’ to the Lower front ‘facing’, overlaying them by 2cm. This removes the 1cm seam allowance on each piece that originally would have been used to sew the pieces together.
Add 1cm seam allowance to the long centre front edge. (not necessary to cut that piece out yet..one more step to go but I already did here in these photos!)
Step 3
Remove the mitre corner excess by drawing a straight line across the bottom of your new front facing piece. Start where the original mitre angle begins on the inner edge of the pattern piece. Draw a line straight across squared with the centre front line.
Cut out and label your new pattern piece ‘Nova Coat Front Zip Facing’, cut one pair main fabric, cut one pair fusing.
Step 4
Add 1cm seam allowance to the centre front edge of your Upper Front pattern piece.
Step 5
Add 1cm seam allowance to the centre front edge of your Lower Front pattern pieces.
Also, square the corner off at the bottom of this piece to fill in the angle originally used for the mitre corner. Simply do this by drawing a line continuing from the straight hemline to meet the line continuing from the centre front line. Cut out your new lower front pattern piece.
Step 6
Mark in a notch at the hem fold-line. This should be 5cm from pattern hem edge.
Step 7
Create a Sleeve cuff piece. Measure the length of your sleeve edge along the wrist-line.
Create a rectangle, the length of the measurement (just taken) and a width of 9cm.
Cut out your rectangle and label it ‘Nova Coat Sleeve Cuff’, Cut one pair main fabric.
Sewing Instructions Adjustments:
Step 1
Attach the Upper fronts to the lower fronts of your outer fabrics as per your instruction booklet.
On the right side, attach one side of your zip along the centre front edge of the jacket front. Make sure to start your zip at the hemline notch.
Repeat on opposite front for other side of the zip.
Step 2
Turn in the top corner of your zip tape, and stitch in place. As seen in picture above.
Step 3
Continue as per your Nova instructions to attach backs, shoulders, sleeves, and side seams.
Step 4
Fuse front facing and back neck facing pieces. With right sides facing, pin front facing to back neck facing along shoulder seams. Stitch and press seams open.
Step 5
With right sides facing, pin the bottom edge of the front facing to the hemline of the lower front hem edge. Stitch together, stopping 1cm from the inside edge of the front facing. Repeat on opposite side. As seen in picture above.
Step 6
With right sides facing, fold the front hemline up at the hem notch, where the zip begins. Pin the front facing to the jacket front along the centre front edge, sandwiching the zip in-between. Stitch. Turn jacket through to the right side to reveal zip, and understitch the seam allowance toward the facing.
Step 7
With right sides facing, pin the two short edges of the sleeve cuff together. Stitch and press seams open.
Repeat for other cuff.
Step 8
Cut elastic to comfortable wrist size. Stitch elastic together well at cut ends to create a circle.
With wrong sides together, fold your sleeve cuff piece in half so that the two long raw edges are together. Sandwich the elastic circle in-between and stitch along the raw edge, encasing the elastic, making sure not to stitch your elastic along the way.
Step 9
With right sides facing, pin the elasticated sleeve cuff to the sleeve hem. Stitch.
Step 10
Make the lining pieces as per your instruction booklet to attach fronts, backs and sleeves.
Step 11
Attach lining to the facing pieces as per your instruction booklet.
Step 12
Attach lining sleeve hem edge to outer sleeve edge, sandwiching the sleeve cuff using the same process as illustrated in your instruction booklet.
Step 13
With right sides facing, pin bottom hem of lining to the raw edge of hem facing on outer fabric. Stitch together starting and stopping your stitch line 1cm from each end where is meets the front facing near zip.
Turn Jacket through to the right side and press hem edge well.
You’ve done it! Enjoy your new cosy zip-up Nova.