Fusing & Facings
Fuse front and back neck facing pieces. Stitch together at shoulder seams. Press seams open. Neaten outer & bottom edges. Put aside until needed.
Step 1
Fold long edges of tie on front bodice together with right sides facing starting from notches. Stitch together.
Step 2
At notch, clip through seam allowance to meet stitch line. Be careful not to clip through your stitching. Press seam open. At end of tie, line up centre of seam allowance with notch. Stitch both layers together. Clip corners then pull tie through to the right side.
Step 3
Neaten centre front seam of both fronts. Stitch together with right sides facing. Press seam open.
Step 4
Fold both front and back pleats into place. Baste in place 5mm/0.2” from top edge of skirt.
Step 5
Folding ties out of the way, place the front bodice over front skirt at waist seam with right sides facing. Stitch together. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward bodice.
Step 6
Place the back bodice pieces over back skirt pieces at waist seams with right sides facing. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Press seam allowance toward bodice.
Step 7
Neaten both centre back seams. Place one side of your invisible zipper onto the left neatened seam with the top of zipper at notch. Fold the top of zipper tape toward centre back seam and stitch in place. Repeat on other side with other side of zipper. Stitch backs together below zipper with right sides facing. Press seam open.
Step 8
Place front and back dress panels together at shoulder seams with right sides facing. Stitch. Neaten seams. Press seam allowances toward the back.
Step 9
1.Cut a small piece of fabric approximately 3cm x 6cm on the bias. 2. Fold edges to centre, press. 3. Fold in half again and stitch in place. Press. 4. Fold in half ready to stitch onto garment.
Place raw edges of loop on the right side of centre back seam 1.5cm from top edge. Stitch in place
Step 10
With right sides together, pin neck facing around neckline of dress and down centre back seam, along invisible zipper tape. Stitch in place. (You may need to use a zipper foot along zip edge). Trim seam allowance and clip corners. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing where you can. Turn facing through to the inside and press edges.
Step 11
Pin facing in place and top stitch down along edge of facing. Press. Hand sew a button onto opposite side to loop.
Step 12
Pin side seams together making sure to line up waist seam of front and back. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Press.
Step 13
Fold sleeve in half and stitch underarm seams together. Neaten seam. With your machine on its longest stitch length, make a line of stitching along the sleeve cap - between the front and back armhole notches - leave the threads long at each end and don’t backstitch at start or finish.
Step 14
Pin sleeve and armhole together with right sides facing matching armhole seam and notches. Gather excess fabric between notches by pulling on thread tails. Stitch around armhole. Neaten seams.
Step 15
Neaten both sleeve and hem edges. Turn up 2.5cm/1”, pin, then stitch in place. Give your dress a good press.
Voilà!