Juno Jacket
a step-by-step tutorial
Fusing
Fuse the hem, from notch to bottom edge of back panel & sleeves with 6cm strips of fusing. Fuse top edge of pocket pieces from notch up with pocket fusing pieces. Fuse back neck facing.
step 1
Neaten top edge of pocket piece, then fold at notches toward wrong side of pocket. Press in place. Top stitch down. Repeat for other 3 pocket pieces.
Step 2
With right sides up, place one pocket piece over the other, lining up bottom edges and sides. Baste together about 5mm/0.2” from edge. Repeat for other side, making sure if reflects the first one.
Step 3
Place your pocket pieces onto the bottom edge of front panel, with the right sides of pockets facing the wrong side of front panel. Stitch together along bottom edge. Neaten seam. Press seam allowance toward front panel and under stitch. Press. Repeat for other front.
Step 4
Fold pockets over to the right side of fronts. Line the top points up with notches and baste in place along sides. Press.
Step 5
Pin front neck band along centre front edge of front panel, with the right side of neck band facing the wrong side of front panel. The band needs to over hang the bottom edge of front panel by 1cm / 0.39”. Stitch together. Open out and press seam allowance toward band.
Step 6
Press the open edge of neck band in 1 cm.
Step 7
Fold the neck band in half with right sides facing, slightly overlapping the pressed edge of band over the stitch line where the band meets front panel. Stitch together along bottom edge of band, lining up with hemline. Clip corner. Turn through to the right side. Press.
Step 8
Pin the pressed edge of neckband in place from the right side, slightly overlapping the seamline, evenly distributing any excess ease. Topstitch in place right along the edge. Press.
Step 9
Pin front and back shoulder seams together with right sides facing, lining up the centre front edge of neckband 1cm/0.39” in from edge of back neckline. Stitch together. Neaten seams.
Step 10
Press outer edge of back neck facing toward the wrong side with your iron.
Pin your back neck facing along back neckline with right sides facing, sandwiching your fronts between. Stitch together. Trim seam allowance in half and clip around curve. Under stitch seam allowance toward facing.
Step 11
With wrong sides still out, pin shoulder edge of back neck facing over front neck band, lining up the edge of facing with edge of band. Stitch together along shoulder seam.
Step 12
Pull back neck facing over to the back and give it a really good press. Pin outer edge of facing to back panel and top stitch in place, lining up your stitch line with the topstitching on the front neck band. Press.
Step 13
With right sides facing, pin sleeves into armholes, matching up notches. Stitch together. Neaten seams. Press seam allowances toward sleeves.
Step 14
Neaten underarm/side seams on each side, the sleeve hems and the back hem edge.
Step 15
With right sides facing, pin together front and back underarm/side seam. Fold the back hem up at notches toward the front, sandwiching the front hem between. Stitch together starting at sleeve edge, stopping your stitch line at the top point of pocket and backtack. Restart your stitch line 4cm below and continue to the bottom edge of hem. Repeat on other side.
Step 16
Where you’ve left the gap in your side seam, press seam allowances open and top stitch around opening on all four sides. This is the gap for your waist tie to thread through.
Step 17
Press your back hem in to place, and topstitch down.
Step 18
Fold sleeve hems up at notches toward the inside and stitch in place. Press.
Step 19
With right sides facing, pin waist tie pieces together at centre back. Stitch. Press seam allowance open. With right sides facing, fold your tie in half with long ends together. Pin along edges, then stitch, leaving a 10cm gap at centre back. Trim seam allowance in half and clip points. Turn through to the right side and use a point turner or knitting needle to get your corners nice and crisp. Press your tie really well then edge stitch the gap closed.
voila!